I buy a drafting vellum paper that's excellent. I pay about $3 to $4 for a 30"x40" sheet that I cut down to 8"x10"s or what ever size I need. They come in single side mark able or both sides mark able. Since I tape the sheets to a slate I usually only buy single sided. For pencils I use woodless grafite drawing pencils I order from Dick Blicks. These come in various hardness but would recommend HB. While the water don't effect these they are brittle and snap easily. I keep mine on a bungi tied to my Shearwater's strap. When I dive dry I slip it under the Shearwater, when diving wet I slip it under my wetsuit sleeve.
Www.artflowslikewater.com
Brendan's Law - "Know what you're breathing. Analyze your gas for O2 and Co. Analyze your gas each time, everytime, anywhere."
I thought everybody was just taking a few dozen arrows and cookies, scribbling whatever nonsense on them, and leaving them in the cave. Me, I just put "Trey" on all of mine.
"Have you ever noticed
When you're feeling really good
There's always a pigeon
That'll come shiat on your hood?" John Prine 4-7-2020
"Into the blue again; in the silent water
Under the rocks, and stones; there is water underground" Talking Heads
croquis is the answer
i have some pop a point pencils as backup
As a "professional", I've used everything from rite in the rain laserjet printer (the non-plastic kind) to bulk-roll mylar. Mylar works great, if you need a lot, and can be had for a decent price if you shop around (I bought a 12ft 40 inch wide roll for $35 from Amazon, and didn't even get the best price). For writing, we buy cases of the yellow Sharpwriter twist-point pencils. The lead is moved by a plastic bit, so even when the spring rusts, you can still advance the lead. I've also had success with pop-a-points, at least until you drop one of the points in the muck trying to replace it. Graphite pencils are great until they get dull, then it looks like you're writing with a crayon. Ditto with china markers.
Cut the sheets to size, tape them to a plastic clipboard (or smooth cutting board if you're cheap) with electrical or duct tape, and you're good to go. It's worth noting that sharpwriters float, so must be tethered or they'll get away from you.
If you've got pre-made forms, you can either print them on the rite--in-the-rain paper, or print them on normal paper and tape it under mylar.
Also, if you go the plasticy rite-in-the-rain or mylar route, be careful not to rub the sheet when it's wet. We've had whole dives' worth of data erased that way. After it dries, spray it with artist's fixative (expensive) or Aquanet/hairspray (cheap).
Jim
I have one of these, while i haven't used it on a cave dive yet (the video shoot was interrupted) you can write anything you want on the screen or just pull up canned text segments (e.g., I am out of air, please let me have your long hose). I have used it mainly for fish id. You have to be careful with battery life. http://idivehousing.com/
Last edited by wingman; 07-07-2016 at 07:25 AM. Reason: text
"With regard to cave diving, the great thing is to be carried where you could not have imagined you would ever be, and then to come back alive."
"Wilderness. The word itself is music." Abbey, Desert Solitaire
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