Next set of SM cylinders, what should I get?

[twaldo]

I think you might need a full class. That said, to not distract too much from OP, most people do not get further in 95s than they do 85s.

I SOOOOO NEED to finish full cave... no argument there. Yeah, 95's are out... looking seriously at 104/108's. 95's I don't think would work just based on physical dimensions.

[grantctobin]

I SOOOOO NEED to finish full cave... no argument there. Yeah, 95's are out... looking seriously at 104/108's. 95's I don't think would work just based on physical dimensions.

A full sidemount class,* not a single day with an instructor. My error for the lack of clarity of intent.

[bent]

And yes to the question about my cylinder placement, all my cylinders are butt high, valve low...even when pulled completely up under my arms... but I think we both agree the butt plate is driving that... the 72's are always going to be butt high.. but the 85's shouldn't be.

No, the butt plate is not the issue. You're not setting the tanks and the rig up correctly. Nothing is gonna change if you just gonna get a new rig.

I think Olli/Nakatomi used the same rig you have and his tanks looked fine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPGWezqUaAQ

I think bamafan was with him in the video.

I don't get why you're having such a hard time to take advice even though everybody is telling you the same thing.

[twaldo]

I don't get why you're having such a hard time to take advice even though everybody is telling you the same thing.

because I DID NOT ASK... Draker started that topic... all I was looking for was what is the next best set of cylinders.

However I am viewing your video because the way the cylinders lay has been bugging me for a while.

[twaldo]

I don't get why you're having such a hard time to take advice even though everybody is telling you the same thing.

And if it were as simple as move your tank bands up 3" I would try it and that seems to be the thing I am pulling from the video. Mine are literally at the top of the boot... way lower than in the video... and please no comments about boots on cylinders.

[TaraR]

Tim,
Regardless of how this conversation started, it is a conversation that needs to be had. I?ve watched you struggle for years with configuration, and as several others have said hiring someone to help you will be money well spent, and will lead to less frustration on your part and more enjoyable dives. Introducing larger tanks without having your rig set up properly will cause even more frustration, more drag, and more difficulty for you.

And yes to the question about my cylinder placement, all my cylinders are butt high, valve low...even when pulled completely up under my arms... but I think we both agree the butt plate is driving that... the 72's are always going to be butt high.. but the 85's shouldn't be.

And if it were as simple as move your tank bands up 3" I would try it and that seems to be the thing I am pulling from the video. Mine are literally at the top of the boot... way lower than in the video...

The buttplate is not the problem, and I would strongly recommend leaving it on especially with steel tanks. I use a plate, and the diver in the video bent posted was also using the plate.

Like I said before there are a combination of things that need to change at the SAME TIME to get your tanks in the correct position. Yes, you need to move the tank bands much higher, however if you do that without tightening your bungees the valve will be allowed to sit lower below you than it does now exacerbating the valve low-butt high problem. Speaking of, your bungees are significantly too long, but if you only try to tighten them without also moving the bands you either won?t physically be able to get the tank attached on both ends, or if you do manage to get it on it will be jammed right up into the back of your arm.

Making those changes can also effect how you set up other parts of your rig, and with SM you have to think about multiple things at once when making changes. This is why hiring an instructor, either now or right after you buy a new wing, will be some of the best money on diving you have ever spent!

No I don't know how to dive Ginnie, I've only done like 5 dives there in the 6 years since class, the ROI is not enough to warrant diving there because one dive and I spend 2 hours getting fills somewhere, one of the reasons I was looking at a 2nd set of cylinders.

It is $10/day to rent a second set of cylinders. You probably spend close to that in gasoline while driving back and forth to go get the fill, besides the time wasted.

and please no comments about boots on cylinders.

Remove the rust traps! Your tanks will thank you!!

[twaldo]

Tim,
Regardless of how this conversation started, it is a conversation that needs to be had. I?ve watched you struggle for years with configuration, and as several others have said hiring someone to help you will be money well spent, and will lead to less frustration on your part and more enjoyable dives. Introducing larger tanks without having your rig set up properly will cause even more frustration, more drag, and more difficulty for you.

The buttplate is not the problem, and I would strongly recommend leaving it on especially with steel tanks. I use a plate, and the diver in the video bent posted was also using the plate.

Like I said before there are a combination of things that need to change at the SAME TIME to get your tanks in the correct position. Yes, you need to move the tank bands much higher, however if you do that without tightening your bungees the valve will be allowed to sit lower below you than it does now exacerbating the valve low-butt high problem. Speaking of, your bungees are significantly too long, but if you only try to tighten them without also moving the bands you either won?t physically be able to get the tank attached on both ends, or if you do manage to get it on it will be jammed right up into the back of your arm.

Making those changes can also effect how you set up other parts of your rig, and with SM you have to think about multiple things at once when making changes. This is why hiring an instructor, either now or right after you buy a new wing, will be some of the best money on diving you have ever spent!

First, that is the plan...in fact I don't even plan on diving the new wing... I want to meet with whomever and pull it out of the package and start configuration there. Personally I didn't start "struggling" until last year when I got to spend a LOT of time in the water and realized there were issues with how my cylinders were laying. The struggle has been CDF drama, even while Heather and I were still cavern there were people claiming we were diving past the level of that cert. The problem with not living in Florida is every one wants to critic but not offer actual helpful suggestions. I've gotten more out of two posts with you than I've gotten out of dozens of threads across the last 5 years.

Yeah after watching video I caught that the butt plate was still the connecting point, but I did miss that they were diving 120's which are a LOT taller... but I still need to move my bands up some I think. As far as my bungees, any shorter and I wouldn't be able to get them around my valves... literally I wouldn't even be able to get my thumbs into them, it is a bit easier when I'm not diving dry but I'm not worried about being a bit sloppy in openwater....and yes time with an instructor would help with that (yes its going to happen) I've had a couple of friends come down and go through cave class and I've seen some things that I want to change by watching them... not going to change it until new wing and time with instructor on it.

ok... I said NO COMMENTS ABOUT BOOTS :P

my tanks love their boots.. they get their yearly checkup and oddly 7 years and still no rust, still no line entrapment.. and as bad as its suggested I am in the water...that has to say something. Of course they never see salt either, hate that stuff.

Seriously Tara, TY.

[zdiver]

I agree with most of the advise you have gotten in the above post. One thing I find totally unacceptable for a casual diver that wants to cave dive is ?I am not worried about being sloppy in open water ?. With the frequency you dive every dive must be a ?cave dive? in order to maintain some sort of current skill level. No you do not need to go in a cave every dive, but you can practice the skills in any water and that becomes your normal practice and you don?t need to adjust to the the environment when you go into a cave.


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[bent]

As far as my bungees, any shorter and I wouldn't be able to get them around my valves....

You really have excuses for everything.

[twaldo]

I agree with most of the advise you have gotten in the above post. One thing I find totally unacceptable for a casual diver that wants to cave dive is ?I am not worried about being sloppy in open water ?. With the frequency you dive every dive must be a ?cave dive? in order to maintain some sort of current skill level. No you do not need to go in a cave every dive, but you can practice the skills in any water and that becomes your normal practice and you don?t need to adjust to the the environment when you go into a cave.


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