Video Technique Question

[Captain Bil]

I've been doing some videoing lately with a Go Pro and an iTorch 5+ light. The rig I have it all attached to is negative, and I believe that negative is contributing to a lot of my footage being shaky. Am I right in this assumption, and will altering the rig to make it neutral help? And if so, what would any of y'all suggest? I'm thinking a length of PVC, sealed up and attached to the rig.

I should add that I really want to keep carrying the rig as opposed to, say, head mounting it. I like the options carrying gives me.

Thanks, Bil

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[TONY CHANEY]

From my take on the situation, for whatever that is worth. WE, buddy and I, started out with the camera mounted tray and two uprights to support the light heads. That went well except for entering and exiting the water. The battery cans. were attached to the diver's belt thus not allowing the ability to hand off the camera. What a pain it was getting into Orange Grove when the water level was way down. So we came up with the "Intova tray" which is able to hold the camera, can. batteries and light heads. All was well except for the excessive weight. (2 older 21w HIDs with SLA batteries). I added some extra pieces of PVC pipes and it has made all the difference.

[Captain Bil]

Thanks, the PVC idea seems to be a cheap way to experiment with finding neutral. My set up is quite small, so getting in and out so far has been no problem.

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[gschaut]

When I was shooting with a "larger" Ikelite video housing, I made up a few balsa wood "trim" blocks. To make the housing neutral, AND have good trim (housing/camera was nose heavy). If you have a tray for camera/lights you should have a few inches space for a couple balsa blocks.

I cut and shaped a couple blocks of balsa wood on a band saw, and gave them a quick spritz of varnish for pool testing. I tested them in the pool and cut them down until I had my housing perfectly trimmed.

Then I covered the balsa in several layers of fiberglass to make them permenently water/pressure tight. The fiberglass being neutrally buoyant did not effect the trim.

The balsa/fiberglass blocks remained watertight and "uncrushed" for several years of use diving to 100' in open ocean.

[speleodiver]

Bill,

PVC works great. Schedule 40 should be good to 400'+ depending on the glue you use. I made a complete platform running two 20ah batteries and 35watt light monkey heads and the go pro 3 black. The rig is 28" long by 14" wide. It is slightly positive and has no "shake" at all. I know part of stability is the length of the frame. Compare it to a pistol. Shorter barrel less accurate with most shooters.

I you like the smaller frame then stick to what you have and add a small length of pipe size depending on the amount of lift you need. I can send you pictures of mine if you want to see it. It's ugly as a prototype should be but I have it right and can even swim it sideways to shoot the subject beside me while watching the view finder.

I am working on editing some Indian, Peacock and Ginnie Footage I shot last week and will post to the Cave Connections you tube account when finished.

[oms121]

Bil

Can you post pics or describe your rig. I dive a negative GoPro rig and the negativity in and of itself is not a big issue in shaking or not shaking. Being neutral or close to neutral will make it a lot nicer to maneuver and you don't have to worry about it dropping into the silt if you drop it but I don't think its the most important aspect of keeping the camera steady. Once I see your rig I may have some suggestions.

Thanks

Mark

[TONY CHANEY]

I am working on editing some Indian, Peacock and Ginnie Footage I shot last week and will post to the Cave Connections you tube account when finished.

Please drop me a link when you finish as well a picture of your tray.

[Captain Bil]

Bil

Can you post pics or describe your rig. I dive a negative GoPro rig and the negativity in and of itself is not a big issue in shaking or not shaking. Being neutral or close to neutral will make it a lot nicer to maneuver and you don't have to worry about it dropping into the silt if you drop it but I don't think its the most important aspect of keeping the camera steady. Once I see your rig I may have some suggestions.

Thanks

Mark

Thanks Mark, I'll post up a pic this AM. Part of the problem I think is ergonomic. It's a generic that doesn't seem to have a good way to hold it. Or, just as likely, it's me .

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[Captain Bil]

Here it is Mark. As I said, pretty generic store bought rig.

[curtschu]

I have a question for the video experts. What is more important output lumens or cool temp? I have access to several old halogen lights and the led industry has come up with a direct replacement bulb. It is only 150-390 lumens but several cooler temps warm, dry light bright etc. I was wondering with the big reflector of the old lights if these would give good lighting with less hotspots. I hate hotspots.