Dive Report: Abaco Island in the Bahamas
When my wife and I decided to try the Bahamas in celebration of our anniversary, I made sure our itinerary included a few days on Abaco so that I could dive with Brian Kakuk of Bahamas Underground. I had contacted him earlier and learned that much of the best cave diving demanded side mount, but a back mounted diver like myself could find plenty to see for a few days of diving. I did two days of diving, all in one system—Dan’s Cave. We went to four different sections, so I was only repeating the entry on each dive, and each section had its own unique beauty.
What is most striking in comparison to my admittedly small amount of cave experience is the composition of the formations. Many of them are translucent and even crystalline. Hold your primary light up to a stalagmite or even a thick column and the glow spreads through it, creating the illusion that it is illuminated from within, like some sort of a giant mood-creating glow candle. Many of the draperies and other formations share that translucence, in colors ranging from gold to delicate white.
The next most striking feature is the sheer abundance of delicate formations. You cannot help but feel a moral obligation to be at your buoyancy best throughout the dive—you do not want to be responsible for the destruction of a single soda straw among the thousands covering the ceiling above you. When navigating a cave that looks as if it were decorated by Tiffany’s, it is not good to look like the proverbial bull in a china shop. I am sure that is the reason that access is so limited. Brian will not take more than two divers into the cave at one time, and trying to get in without him, although possible, is not at all easy.
I shared that access with Arnaud, a diver who had come from France for the experience. He had already been there for several days, and he and Brian had done a push to try to extend the line in a remote corner the day before. He was great company. One of the best aspects of cave diving is how complete strangers can become good friends in a matter of minutes.
In many ways diving here is like diving in Brian’s home. He created and maintains the entrance area, a nicely civilized way to get into what would otherwise be an overgrown mud puddle deep in a pine forest. Although there were lines when he first visited the cave, the line system in place now is his responsibility. And a big responsibility it is. This cave is extremely complex, with jump leading to jump leading to jump, and many circuits possible. Such a labyrinth could easily lead to lost divers, but the lines are so well done that you could take a diver blindfolded to any place in the cave with the confidence that he or she could get out with ease.
My two days were over much too quickly. I certainly hope the future brings me back, and if it does, you can be sure of two things: I will be staying longer, and I will be diving side mount.
The picture below shows Brian and me emerging from Dan's Cave. The Photo was taken by Arnaud Leblant. I have no pictures of the inside of the cave, but Google will find hundreds for you.
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Originally Posted by rongoodman
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