Gear transition path from OW--> Cavern/Intro--> Full C

[dshuman]

I have been lurking around here for a little while and have found this board refreshingly friendly. My buddy and I are preparing to take Cavern this fall and I would value your opinions on the gear choices to get the most out of this level of diving and also position ourselves not to have to replace gear as we advance further. We are both BP/W and are long hose with a fairly streamlined system.

I have a RG1208 as a 1st stage, my buddy has a Maress MR22. We would need a backup first stage for each of us. Should the backup be the same as the primary?

As far as tanks go, I cannot find too much information on H-Valve or Y-Valve setups. Is there a particular tank setup that will allow for easy transition to doubles? Modular h-valves? Or would you recommend getting the doubles setup and getting the certification on these?

What is the common gear transition path from OW --> Cavern/Intro --> Full Cave?

Dave

[panagiotis]

Get Din conversion kits for your (you and your friend's) 1st stages if you don't already have it. Then for your next 1st stage reg get them with Din. Also buy a Din to Yoke adapter allowing you to go back to open water. This will be the most economical.

As far as your second 1st stage - I'd get the same that you already have.
This will allow for easier repairs & having spares...

More than likely - when you cross over from the dark side - you will have 3 sets of regs (2 for cave and 1 for when you venture back to the darkside (open water)). It becomes a major pain in the *!$ to convert back and forth when you only have 2 and increase the chance of damage occuring. Secondly, after travelling muchos hours to go diving the last thing you want is a failure to stop you from diving - thus you bring the darkside setup to be the sacrificial pig of parts.

Hope this helps,
pete[/quote]

[Jordan]

Your regs are fine.

Get yourself 2 more regs each so you each have 3 (most any new regs will do nowadays).

Start diving w/ doubles and after you get comfy in 'em start diving with a small bottle (you will use deco gas in it down the road).

After you're comfy with all of that and have read the proper materials (and aren't a nose-picker) and dive nitrox and have working knowledge of deco gases and be good in the water - you might be ready.

[Caver95]

Your regs are fine.

Get yourself 2 more regs each so you each have 3 (most any new regs will do nowadays).

Start diving w/ doubles and after you get comfy in 'em start diving with a small bottle (you will use deco gas in it down the road).

After you're comfy with all of that and have read the proper materials (and aren't a nose-picker) and dive nitrox and have working knowledge of deco gases and be good in the water - you might be ready.

maybe you should follow your own advice.

[jammer]

I know some Instructors do not mind students doing cavern in doubles as long as their trim is good in them. I know my instructor didn't mind but I did mine in H-Valves and my Intro in doubles.

[OneBrightGator]

Your current regs are fine, most people use identical first stages, you don't have to though. DIN conversion and a DIN to Yoke Adapter (you should be set, this should apply to your buddy) are a good first step. When I go single outlet I just convert my doubles regs into one singles reg, save money from not buying an extra set, keep your stuff well maintained and you'll be fine.

If you're buying tanks, go with PST tanks. Old LP80/new HP100 would be the smallest I'd recommend. Modular H-valves are a good choice, I would have one of you buy two RH and the other two LH that way when you switch tanks your valve location will stay the same then when you go to double them up, trade. If you don't have hardly any experience in doubles I would not try to take a class in them.

Don't forget to ask your instructor his opinion, after all, you're paying for his, our two cents are free!

[Gary]

As far as tanks go, I cannot find too much information on H-Valve or Y-Valve setups. Is there a particular tank setup that will allow for easy transition to doubles? Modular h-valves? Or would you recommend getting the doubles setup and getting the certification on these?

I'd stay away from the single tank H-valve/Y-valve things. Modular valves will convert to Manifold IF you get opposing (left and right) valves - but I don't think they make opposing H-valve connectors so you end up replacing one of the valves anyway and storing the extra pieces once you go to doubles (and probably get screwed each time you have to refit the pieces) into a new config.

Doubles have much more redundancy and I think hose H-valves will mostly be a waste of money. For the most part getting out of the single tank BC to a backplate and harness will be a big positive as well (most single tank BCs are largely inadequate for cave).

my opinion: the sooner into doubles the better (Intro and up).

[Jordan]

As far as tanks go, I cannot find too much information on H-Valve or Y-Valve setups. Is there a particular tank setup that will allow for easy transition to doubles? Modular h-valves? Or would you recommend getting the doubles setup and getting the certification on these?

I'd stay away from the single tank H-valve/Y-valve things. Modular valves will convert to Manifold IF you get opposing (left and right) valves - but I don't think they make opposing H-valve connectors so you end up replacing one of the valves anyway and storing the extra pieces once you go to doubles (and probably get screwed each time you have to refit the pieces) into a new config.

Doubles have much more redundancy and I think hose H-valves will mostly be a waste of money. For the most part getting out of the single tank BC to a backplate and harness will be a big positive as well (most single tank BCs are largely inadequate for cave).

my opinion: the sooner into doubles the better (Intro and up).

Listen to this wise old man - he knows what he is talking about. The only thing I'll add is a Transpac is another option.

[Dave Lizdas]

Dave, I think you can learn doubles quickly enough. You just have to reach those valves and practice them every dive. Why not learn redundancy now.

The new Pressed Steel (PST) 119's are 95's that are rated to 3500 psi and have a corrosion-resistant zinc coating. Use cylinder bands that have thick bolthole plates, no spot welds on thin metal or you will soon replace them. The Thermo manifolds are 3/4 inch higher than DR's; that little bit made the valves are easier to reach on my kit. I use a lightweight aluminum backplate.

I'm happy with DR classic wings. I added a 12 inch hose, also took the pull-dump valve off the hose and replaced it with a simple elbow because my friend's pull-dump valve failed in the Ear and everyone laughed at him while he climbed out and bounced his way to the steps. That's something to think about in OW: doubles are heavy.

My backup lights are the same, one kind of battery and bulb, one less thing I'll forget. those little IST jet fins are great for frog kicks. add spring straps so they won't fail. etc, etc, etc, it never ends.

[HomoErectus]

Dave, I think you can learn doubles quickly enough. You just have to reach those valves and practice them every dive. Why not learn redundancy now.
.
.
That's something to think about in OW: doubles are heavy.
.
.

I started using doubles as OW with about 25 dives ( DIR ) Since then I use single tanks only when I go in south Florida.
It is true that they are little bit heavy, but after you get use of them you will just say that singles are light.
I got my Cavern & Intro (and even Nitrox) cert dives on doubles, and I did not see any harm; they are a couple of minimal disadvantages, but advantages are way more.

On the rest of your questions, you have gotten answers from people who are better than me, so I will just shut up.
PM me if you need any advise