Could not agree more. I do this kind of work full-time for a living and Simple Green is about the lamest of compounds out there, as far as I'm concerned. Doc Dick Boyd @ Global Mfg Corp has devoted his lifetime to developing the stuff that they sell and believe me, it works. I will not use any other chemicals for this kind of work because I get the results that I want first time:
Special Cleaner # 42100 or Oxy-Safe Citrate #42075 for slurry tumbling.
Acidic Cleaner # 42070 (mild phosphoric acid) for no tumbling media (don't use this stuff in AL cylinders).
Hydrosonic Cleaner # 43101 for valves and regs with an outstanding O2 Clean result.
Compound O (Oxy-Safe Rust Inhibitor) # 42220 for final rinse and drying.
As I said in the document Keeping the Reaper Away from Your Regulator (currently posted on the NACD website):
http://www.safecavediving.com/Grim_Reaper_Regulator.pdf
let's not fool ourselves...like it or not, most of those in this community of divers are going to want to service their own equipment, so let's put out as much info as we can to help that endevor, and not cast stones at those who want to work on their own personal equipment.
Here are 2 good links on O2 Cleaning Tanks and Regs:
http://www.gmcscuba.com/pdf/tank%20c...ing%20tips.pdf
http://www.gmcscuba.com/pdf/CONVERTI...%20SERVICE.pdf
All of the info in the above resources comply with the standards and guidelines set forth in CGA Phamplet G-4.1-2004 Cleaning Equipment for Oxygen Service. I would make that available, but there is a copyright on it. It can be ordered from CGA for a one time payment of $71:
http://www.cganet.com/publication_detail.asp?id=G-4.1 It's an important document to have if you are getting paid to do this kind of work but IMHO you don't need it if you are doing work on your own gear.
Hope this info helps......Crazy Jack![]()





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