O2 Cleaning Tanks

[stickydeco]

My buddy and I use a citric acid solution to clean the tanks, and a rust inhibitor when rinsing. And we always use distilled water for the rinsing. We get the supplies through the dive shop from Global.

We tried Simple Green and it was a PITA to get the tanks rinsed clean.

Could not agree more. I do this kind of work full-time for a living and Simple Green is about the lamest of compounds out there, as far as I'm concerned. Doc Dick Boyd @ Global Mfg Corp has devoted his lifetime to developing the stuff that they sell and believe me, it works. I will not use any other chemicals for this kind of work because I get the results that I want first time:

Special Cleaner # 42100 or Oxy-Safe Citrate #42075 for slurry tumbling.
Acidic Cleaner # 42070 (mild phosphoric acid) for no tumbling media (don't use this stuff in AL cylinders).
Hydrosonic Cleaner # 43101 for valves and regs with an outstanding O2 Clean result.
Compound O (Oxy-Safe Rust Inhibitor) # 42220 for final rinse and drying.

As I said in the document Keeping the Reaper Away from Your Regulator (currently posted on the NACD website):
http://www.safecavediving.com/Grim_Reaper_Regulator.pdf
let's not fool ourselves...like it or not, most of those in this community of divers are going to want to service their own equipment, so let's put out as much info as we can to help that endevor, and not cast stones at those who want to work on their own personal equipment.

Here are 2 good links on O2 Cleaning Tanks and Regs:

http://www.gmcscuba.com/pdf/tank%20c...ing%20tips.pdf

http://www.gmcscuba.com/pdf/CONVERTI...%20SERVICE.pdf

All of the info in the above resources comply with the standards and guidelines set forth in CGA Phamplet G-4.1-2004 Cleaning Equipment for Oxygen Service. I would make that available, but there is a copyright on it. It can be ordered from CGA for a one time payment of $71:
http://www.cganet.com/publication_detail.asp?id=G-4.1 It's an important document to have if you are getting paid to do this kind of work but IMHO you don't need it if you are doing work on your own gear.

Hope this info helps......Crazy Jack

[fixxervi6]

I think you needto invest a little cash here. It'll pay off in the long run:

1) Buy oxyhacker's book: http://www.airspeedpress.com/newoxyhacker.html

2) Buy some simple green and some ivory dish fluid. I prefer ivory, less odour and easier to remove.

3) Buy an ultrasonic cleaner: you can get a reasonable sized one for $45-60 on Ebay. Shove the disassembled valve in the bath and clean it with diluted vinegar followed by diluted soap. Rinse like hell afterwards. Only use soap in the cylinder, no vinegar. Remember to scrub the threads on the tank - use a toothbrush and brush with the threads in a circular fashion upwards so the gunk comes out at the top of the tank.

4) Have fun! It's nice knowing that the tanks really are clean.

5) On reassemby us a LITTLE O2 grease on the threads and the neck O ring (which you should also replace). This stuff is pricey but a 2Oz tube will last you years. I clean my tanks and regs regularly - Ieven service my own haskell - and I've yet to use 1/10th of a tube in 2 years!

I also have a tumbler - it's a nice addition. And I have one of those thingies that go on the eond of an LP hose that let you squirt air for drying parts as well as the tank once you're dine cleaning it.

This is easy stuff to do. And fun. Just go slow and learn as you go along.

If you use crystal simple green it doesn't have that green crap in it, no odor, color, and washes out 100X easier, you have to order it I've NEVER seen it in stores.

I prefer blue gold, on the final rinse process I put a touch of blue gold in the rinse water - not much at all - and it virtually eliminates flash rust.