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  1. #1
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    Default Drysuit Pee Valve Installation

    What are people's thoughts on installing a pee-valve on a drysuit? Aqua-seal, gaskets or just compression? A quick search shows all three options, but I'm curious why people are using different options. Installing a pee-valve on a suit is a stressful experience and want to make sure I'm not way off target on my install.


    To help with discussion, please make a note if you have experience related to a specific type of drysuit. Crushed neoprene, trilam, lined vs. unlined may all need different techniques.


    For reference, I just installed a LM Tinkle Valve on a brand new Waterproof D7. LM doesn't have an install guide that I could find, but there were a handful of videos that recomended using gaskets, which is what I used.


  2. #2
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    I've installed them on DUI FLX and TLS material using aquaseal. So far its been fine.


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by PfcAJ View Post
    I've installed them on DUI FLX and TLS material using aquaseal. So far its been fine.
    Aquaseal on both the inside (base of the valve) and outside (nut side), or just the inside?


  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlillest View Post
    Aquaseal on both the inside (base of the valve) and outside (nut side), or just the inside?
    I think both sides. But just a little or you’ll end up with a mess on your hands.


  5. #5
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    Jon, use a dremel tool or sandpaper to roughen the flat surfaces and then use a thin layer of Aquaseal on both the base and the nut. Don't overtighten or it will just squeeze out all the Aquaseal.

    J. Charles Roberson
    FATHOM Dive Systems, LLC
    [email protected]

  6. #6
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    Default

    When you use a punch to cut the hole in the leg, put a backing board inside the leg. If you forget, you can either patch 1 hole or use 2 P-Valves. :-(

    The best way is to glue a trilam patch on the inside of the leg, punch the hole, punch holes in 2 pieces of car innertubes which are then glued to both sides of the drysuit hole and screw everything together - It'll never leak around the hole and the trilam has been well enough supported that it wont ever go bad. I like Blackwitch glue best for glueing the material together.

    Michael


  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jlillest View Post
    To help with discussion, please make a note if you have experience related to a specific type of drysuit. Crushed neoprene, trilam, lined vs. unlined may all need different techniques.


    .
    I have installed P-valves on Neoprene and trilaminate. On neoprene you will have to unscrew, and reapply to get compression of the material

    One difference I do that most don't do, is I have never sealed a P-valve with aquaseal,but use RTV like GE silicone 2. Provides an excellent water proof seal that has longevity,but I can remove it.

    "Not all change is improvement...but all improvement is change" Donald Berwick

  8. #8
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    Trilam is easy. I once put a P-valve in compressed neoprene, and over tightened it. It extruded all the neoprene, and leaked. I had to make rubber "washers" and glue them in with Aquaseal to repair the mess I made.

    Forrest Wilson (with 2 Rs)
    Any opinions are personal.
    Sump Divers

  9. #9
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    I USA black rtv sealant I’ve never had one leak.aquaseal works well also until you need to remove the pee valve if it needs to be replaced or on 2 the next shot lol

    Live life one dive at a time

  10. #10
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    I've installed about half a dozen pvalves on all sorts of drysuits. Then one day I really hosed one up. Pun intended. I took it to gamble to fix it. He charged me $20 to install the pvalve. I paid $12 the week before for aquaseal. For $8 difference, I just let him do it now.

    No clue what his pricing is now after his move to the other company. But to know it's done right, easier to just pay him. We're not talking big money.



 

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