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  1. #21
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    Anybody remember seeing these images.





    I would hate to get a shot of that soot down my pipes.

    I tried to see what popped on his rig but with all the soot I cant tell if it was the 1st stage or the neck ring.


  2. #22
    Social Co-Director
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sludge
    Not all viton o-rings are brown. Oceanic's are black, and they're labeled "Viton."

    Scubapro's are black, and the head of Scubapro Technical Services assures me they're compatible for oxygen service, although he didn't say they were viton.

    Russell
    The color of an O ring does not indicate the material it is made from. The color is generally added by the O ring manufacturer. If you want a large enough quantity, I suppose you could get a bunch of EPDM O rings made up that were yellow or something.

    Bob K

  3. #23
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    You can get viton in either brown or black (depending upon the durometer you need) from a variety of suppliers. I have even seen some opaque white ones but have no clue where they came from; they had a much harder shore-d.

    DeWayne

    The safest way to dive solo is to refuse to dive with an idiot. - Dave Sutton


    Cogito cogito ergo cogito sum - Ambrose Bierce (1906, Devil's Dictionary)

  4. #24
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    Mar 2005
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    Gainesville
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    I'm going to learn to rebuild my regulators this year. I figure I'm likely to do a better job since its my life my regulators support. Could y'all elaborate on the ultrasonic cleansing? Is that a jewelry cleaner? what solution do you use?

    ultrasonic cleaning, gloves, Cristolube. Generally being clean. Anything else I should know? Did you take a class? When you set your cracking pressure on your second stage, do you use a pressure gauge, or do you do just do it by feel?


  5. #25
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    Oct 2004
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    Buford, Ga
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Lizdas
    I'm going to learn to rebuild my regulators this year. I figure I'm likely to do a better job since its my life my regulators support. Could y'all elaborate on the ultrasonic cleansing? Is that a jewelry cleaner? what solution do you use?
    http://cavediver.net/phpbb2/viewtopi...ght=ultrasonic

    I found a decent used one one ebay for about 120. It has heat, and it's large enough to do a manifold. I bought some SS mesh and rods from McMaster and made a good sized basket for it as well. The whole thing is not essential, but it sure does a nice job!

    The goofy little jewelery cleaners in Wallyworld won't do the trick.


  6. #26
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    Aug 2005
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    south of Atlanta
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Lizdas
    I'm going to learn to rebuild my regulators this year. I figure I'm likely to do a better job since its my life my regulators support.
    My brother needs to have his appendix out. I'm going to learn how to do it. I figure I'm likely to do a better job than the doctor since he's not even related to him.

    MK7


  7. #27
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    Mar 2005
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    Gainesville
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    Thanks for the link to that thread Jay M.

    MK7, Doing surgery is a lot different than rebuilding a regulator. Becoming legally qualified to rebuild scuba regulators requires one course; whereas a surgeon takes 4 years of medical school, and years of residence. I urge you to seek qualified medical assistance before you cut on anyone!


  8. #28
    Genesis
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    Yeah, and the "one course" is a roughly a 2-hour class at DEMA!


  9. #29
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    Sep 2008
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    Columbus, OH
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    Quote Originally Posted by Genesis View Post
    Viton isn't REALLY O2 compatable. It WILL light and if it does it releases really nasty byproducts - much worse than Buna-N.

    Buna-N O-rings will wear out faster than Viton in an enriched O2 atmosphere. They too aren't really O2 compatable.

    The bigger issue with regs (and valves) is the HP seat. I am aware of NO scuba regulator or valve that has truly-compatable O2 seats (made of something like KEL-F.) I'm sure if someone knows of an exception they'll correct me

    Ever notice how manufacturers don't actually say "Oxygen Service" on their products? There's a reason for this - you WILL find that on medical regulators and aerospace equipment, but not on scuba gear...... to a certain extent we're all "Crash test dummies" when it comes to this.

    With that said, the big deal is getting and keeping them clean. The ultrasonic is your friend, and use Krytox or Christolube when you put them back together.

    Oh, and wear latex or vinyl (no talc!) gloves - skin oil is sufficient contamination to bugger your cleaning.
    About using Krytox which one?and as for Christolube is there one you would recomend? There are other options as well. Not trying to spam here, but any old PFPE/thickened With PTFE is not the same, as ther are diffrent Viscosity
    oils that react very differently with temperature. I worked at Lubrication Technology for 5 years and was their scuba guy.

    TRIBOLUBE, YOU HAVE A CHOICE!
    David Lodwick
    Aerospace Lubricants, Inc.
    614-878-3600 Office
    david@aerospacelubricants.com
    www.aerospacelubricants.com/tribolube/scuba

  10. #30

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    For the most part a flash over in a tank or valve does not go "boom" What it does do is burn very fast and uses up the oxygen it has available. Depending on when this happens and what the percentage of oxygen that is left in the tank, it can make for a very bad dive. Carbon monoxide at depth can ruin your day or if bad enough make it your last. I have heard or some regulators flashing and burning the user. Is this true or myth I do not know. I suppose it could happen, but I would think the risk is slight. O2 cleaning takes any flammable products out of your diving equation which is never a bad thing. Remember oxygen is not a flammable gas it just supports combustion. Learned that from Bill Nye the Science Guy.

    Peter Friedman
    Stuart Scuba
    peter@stuartscuba.com
    Stuart Florida


 

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