Hand slave strobe

[tflaris]

Reading the owners manual for the Ikelite manual EV Controller it has a setting for the pre-flash or no pre-flash.

Looks promising.


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[Taucher-Tom]

I second this Celia, manual settings ( for camera and strobe(s) ) and you get what YOU want. There´s only one big disadvantage: Noone to blame for bad shots...

[billyf]

so where are we on + for Ikelite?

I have 3 DS125's and 2 DS160's

being that the DS125 has been discontinued I went with the DS160, I have been debating on getting some DS200's but it uses a different battery pack.

one thing nice about the 160/161 is that the aiming light is LED so you can have your subjects use them as primary lights and you know where the they are pointing when you take the shot.

[Taucher-Tom]

The "problem" I experienced with this is that you can see the beam of the led-light when using long exposure times

[RAL]

I second this Celia, manual settings ( for camera and strobe(s) ) and you get what YOU want. There´s only one big disadvantage: Noone to blame for bad shots...

+ 2 Once you go manual you are free to use other strobes. New old Nikonos sb 105s are great slaves for manual shooting. There may be "better" units out there but the 105s are the best bang for the buck for manual use IMO.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Nikon-Ni...#ht_1288wt_918

Come on Tom a clever photographer can always deflect the blame...that may in fact be what separates the pros from the shmoes
RAL

[amphipod06]

+ 2 Once you go manual you are free to use other strobes. New old Nikonos sb 105s are great slaves for manual shooting. There may be "better" units out there but the 105s are the best bang for the buck for manual use IMO.RAL

I have 2 SB 105's that were (prior to me diving them to try them out) brand new. With fresh batteries and facing my DS160's they fired once in a while and were rather weak, the DS51 was stronger and I gave up on them, additionally the built in slave sensor only works with a strobe firing very close to them. They are not my choice for slaves.

I have 2 DS125's with EV controllers as slaves and they are powerful enough and have a fast recycling rate, enough to keep up with the DS 160's that I use as primaries. Plus, if you have the NiMH battery packs on them (Ikelite does not support the older NiCad) then the battery packs are the same for all your strobes.
You do not have to have a newer or "converted" DS125's to have them perform as slaves or if you use them as primaries on manual mode.

From the Ikelite site:
* SubStrobes with Serial Number below 2,500 can NOT be updated to operate correctly with the latest TTL conversion circuitry. Click here for details on upgrading to a DS160 or DS161 Substrobe.
* SubStrobes with Serial Number between 2,500 and 4,999 require upgrade of electronics to operate. Cost of update depends on strobe circuitry. Strobe must be returned to the factory for evaluation to provide an estimate of upgrade cost.

That tidbit of information may save you a couple of bucks when looking for a used strobe. You can argue that one that cannot be upgraded should be cheaper...well you can try anyway. But it's good to know.

Anyhow, I hope this helps and you have fun, take LOTS of photos, experiment with diff settings and find out what works for you, it's fun and very rewarding when it all "clicks".

Dive safe,

Celia

[limeyx]

I'm pretty sure the sensor mounted on the underside of the inon is 360 degrees (I've never specifically tested this), more if you count the underside area of the sensor, that protrudes half an inch or so from the bottom of the body
http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_...oducts_id=3513

Interesting. I wonder if anyone has gotten to see how well it works.

[Benderr]

Interesting. I wonder if anyone has gotten to see how well it works.

I shoot a D2000w, which allegedly has the older generation sensor.....

I just placed my strobe in my kitchen, with the lights out. From my living room, with the lights on, I was able to trigger the Inon from 20ft-25ft away (depending on the angle) including facing me, facing away, and from directly below. I suspect, with all lights out, and simulating cave conditions, it would do better (I didn't try from further than 25ft in any event).

[Ben M]

I shoot a D2000w, which allegedly has the older generation sensor.....

I just placed my strobe in my kitchen, with the lights out. From my living room, with the lights on, I was able to trigger the Inon from 20ft-25ft away (depending on the angle) including facing me, facing away, and from directly below. I suspect, with all lights out, and simulating cave conditions, it would do better (I didn't try from further than 25ft in any event).

If you aren't in the water, you aren't simulating much of anything. Light attenuates much faster in water, plus what did you place the strobe on? Your floor or counter top? Is it a reflective surface? I've tried that before, and it was not a good estimate of how it works in the water.

[Gene Powell]

If you aren't in the water, you aren't simulating much of anything. Light attenuates much faster in water, plus what did you place the strobe on? Your floor or counter top? Is it a reflective surface? I've tried that before, and it was not a good estimate of how it works in the water.

You would do better to take it outside at night and it still will not be quite the same as in the water. Manual controllers are the way to go, but with a little imagination you can supplement them with the less expensive setups(built in sensors).
Hey Ben, I bet you have a pretty good portfolio by now!