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  1. #171
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    As of my last request..several months back he is out.

    "...some night, in the chill darkness, someone will make a mistake: The sea will show him no mercy." John T. Cunningham

  2. #172
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    If you are thinking of making you own take a look at this

    http://www.mighty-mite.com/files/MMM...2001-28-13.pdf

    I used the 2.5 cut to length for the battery then lathed the lid to size. All you need is access to a small lathe and some 1 inch plexi all the edrest can be done with simple Home Depot tools. I buy the gland that salvo used. Heads are another matter


  3. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by curtschu View Post
    If you are thinking of making you own take a look at this

    http://www.mighty-mite.com/files/MMM...2001-28-13.pdf

    I used the 2.5 cut to length for the battery then lathed the lid to size. All you need is access to a small lathe and some 1 inch plexi all the edrest can be done with simple Home Depot tools. I buy the gland that salvo used. Heads are another matter
    I reached out to this company and confirmed they are still selling the molded one piece mortar tube they are about $10 buck a piece. I have bee diving my light with an 18 watt Salvo for years it WORKS I do not see the reason to ever go to the expense of machining Delrin on a DIY light canister unless you have a bunch of 3 inch stock laying around. If I could get someone to punch out a bunch of lids I'd be tempted to make some more.


  4. #174

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    If you'll send me measurements, I'll print a test lid. I'm not sure we can get a reliable seal because of the surface texture, but maybe with a little sanding.

    "Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable." --JFK

  5. #175
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    oh had not thought of that. if you could adjust to get the smoothest surface as possible and light sanding more like lapping the seal surfaces with compound might just work. I'll measure tonight. how does the printed plastic take drilling and tapping?


  6. #176

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    Drilling and tapping would depend on the infill percentage. I can print internally solid objects. At that point it's just ABS. Depending on the part, I can print a honeycomb structure internally. That saves a lot of plastic and time. I can include the drilled holes in the model, and increase the wall thicknesses to allow for tapping.

    "Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable." --JFK

  7. #177
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    I think I have it, So at the point of attachment it would be solid and thick enough to tap and the rest would be a honeycomb structure.


  8. #178

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    Whatever holes you're going to need would be in the CAD model. I would increase the wall thicknesses (which would include the walls of those holes) to include enough meat to be tapped. The rest of the internal volume would be honeycomb. The density of the honeycomb will be based on how strong I think it needs to be. Kinda like this, but a different pattern.


    "Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable." --JFK

  9. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenwood_60 View Post
    Whatever holes you're going to need would be in the CAD model. I would increase the wall thicknesses (which would include the walls of those holes) to include enough meat to be tapped. The rest of the internal volume would be honeycomb. The density of the honeycomb will be based on how strong I think it needs to be. Kinda like this, but a different pattern.

    Here's what I have. Sorry I'm no draftsmen
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

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  10. #180
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    High Springs
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    Why did this thread die off?



 

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