Ok. I'll play. I agree with you and my observations are similar. The very small number of burst disc failures I have seen have all related to either really old burst discs that should have been replaced when the tank was hydro tested (a good interval to do it, every 3 years is better) or to a fill that was well over the intended service pressure for the burst disc assembly.
The one exception was a new 3500 psi service pressure burst disc I installed in a LP 95 that blew about 30 minutes after a fill to 3600 psi. I suspect the disc was defective and/or incorrectly marked.
The bottom line is you have to plan your dives to survive, even if you have a burst disk failure, o-ring failure, etc.
Most of the burst disk failures I have seen were due to using disks designed for old steel 72s, in Nimrod, and early PST tanks. We used to replace the burst plugs with solid bolts. Once the air fill stations found out, they started inspecting the burst disk plugs. That was when the SS burst disks were invented. Modern burst disks come in a much wider range of design pressures, so there isn't a real need for "cheating". Like DA said, they should be replaced regularly. They flex each that the tank is used/filled, and wear out.
Chris Hill
www.ocda.org
"Every man dies, but not every man really lives." William Wallace - Braveheart
I wouldn't disagree with your reasoning. For me it's just eliminating one more "potential" point of failure. Call it peace of mind. Read all this discussion - with SS disks, it all becomes mute points.
Also, I have "heard" that with SS disks, the next thing to blow would be the valve neck o-ring, not the tank. Whether that is true or not, I would still use SS disks in all my tanks.
Cheers.
Chris Hill
www.ocda.org
"Every man dies, but not every man really lives." William Wallace - Braveheart
It's a compromise. On the one hand if you install a stainless steel disc you do eliminate a potential source of failure. (Although I'd still replace it or at least inspect it for corrosion, etc, every time you hydro test the tank and at that time you should also rebuild the valve - and the burst disc replacement would be part of that rebuild process.)
On the other hand if you are using a burst disc intended for the actual fill pressures you are using and you are replacing it on a reasonable interval, then the risk of failure is very, very small to start with.
In exchange for the elimination of that very very small failure potential, you are adding the risk that the disc may not fail when needed, for example in case of a direct fill from a compressor or large high pressure bank or in the case of a fire where a tank with 3600 psi in it (at room temp) may fail catastrophically when the pressure increases to similar levels due to the heat of the fire.
Now...to play devils advocate here and in the interest of being both fair and transparent on the issue - it may not make much difference either way. Consider a burst disc intended for a special permit 3442 psi service pressure tanks. By law the (new) burst disc must rupture at no less than 90% of the test pressure and at no more than the test pressure. So in this case the disc must rupture between 4646 and 5163 psi. Even the low number may be more than you want to subject a 2400 psi low pressure steel tank to, especially when it is heating up in a fire given that the test pressure for a 2400 psi 3AA steel tank is only 4000 psi.
You can also get into a debate the issue of whether it is better to store tanks empty or full, both in terms of long term effect on the tank and in terms of what is better in the event of a fire, specifically in this case when the tank has a SS "burst"disc in it.
You're makin' me dizzy!![]()
Chris Hill
www.ocda.org
"Every man dies, but not every man really lives." William Wallace - Braveheart
OK I'll respond to post 43. Who was that moron again? I agree with the rest of your posting though.
Jack
I would like to hear from some of our European cave divers. I know many European valves do not even have burst disc ports.
Bookmarks