Hey guys, anyone got any good heated vest options. I'm looking at this from Narked @ 90. What are your thoughts....
http://www.narkedat90.com/category_s/1957.htm
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Hey guys, anyone got any good heated vest options. I'm looking at this from Narked @ 90. What are your thoughts....
http://www.narkedat90.com/category_s/1957.htm
Get it direct: heatedwetsuits.com (also has drysuit heaters)
My wife has one. If it would fit me I'd steal it.
I use the Santi heated vest and love it.
The one you listed is rather pricy and I'm not sure where it gets its power. The wireless thingie is a gadget that will get lost :)
My buddy has that one and loves it. He let me use it once and it was toasty.
Pat, it's not pricey when you factor in that it comes with batteries. My concern now is that the batteries are inside your suit, so if there's an issue during a 5 hour dive, you got no way to shut it down. That's terrifying.
What's the runtime on the narked90 model?
When I upgraded my light, I made sure to increase the battery to 20a and have an outlet for the vest.
You could use a separate battery with eo cord. Being in cave country, options are quite varied. Might be able to get a canister second hand.
KISS.
You see the full Golem set up is on sale?
Or you can use a separate can as it usually only gets fired up on deco so the pack can stay on your deepest bottle.
Im going to use the motorcycle vest like the rest of the boys use as its cheap and very easy to wire.
Bob
I was talking to Jakub from Golem Gear last year and he told us the story about developing the GG setup from a motorcycle vest.Quote:
Originally Posted by floridabob
He wanted to test out what would happen in a flood, so he walked into the water and got the shock of his life. It's hilarious when he tells it.
Not meant as a comment on whether you should or shouldn't use a motorcycle vest, your comment just brought back a funny memory.
Ted Greene swears by the motorcycle vest and you just use a can light battery pack he goes by OC diver. I think he has a thread about it on the Deco stop
I have a BTS Systems/Dive Xtras/Typhoon heated vest. It works well, but if I did it again, I'd be sure to get a breathable vest. The one I have traps sweat. YMMV.
I have used the Santi with a Light monkey external battery Pack. Works well!
TF
I've got a motorcycle vest wired into a light monkey battery pack using a light monkey bulkhead and a Pitkin controller. Works great.
Get the Golem like the rest of your dive team. We will take care of the battery.
Can someone please remove the ellipses from the thread title?
My girlfriend has one of those and really loves it. There is no bulkhead for flood potential and it can be flooded safely since it can also be worn with a wet suit.
I might be tempted to try it out if I could ever pry it out of her fingers. :-)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Hat Jef
I suppose anyone who wears something for greater than 12-15 hrs during a dive should be good enough for me on my 3-4hr dive...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Something to consider with those heater shirts that have the internal (relative to the drysuit) batteries is that if it turns on and you can't get it to turn off, you're gunna have a bad time.
Some of these vests get HOT and some of them can develop hotspots that can burn.
All that said, I've got a synergy tourmaster motorcycle vest. Its been good on some fairly long dives and has some inherent insulating ability due to the material. The Santi one is nice because its also got 200g thinsulate which provides some passive warmth when the vest is off.
In any case, I wouldn't rely solely on the vest to keep warm. A good (fresh) undergarment, base layer, and hood is critical.
Yeah, I've pretty much decided against the one I've listed. The idea of not being able to shut it down when something goes wrong would be really bad with 2+ hours of deco
Talk to the Monkey's Pete, they'll set you straight... :)
Safe diving,
Rich
I use both the Santi and the Tourmaster Synergy like AJ. The latter is a bit more powerful. I am on my second one - eventually they develop hotspots, I think with repeated bending of the wires (don't fold it!). The Santi one works well too. A good base layer underneath helps a lot. You also have to consider the power consumption. Most vests are 35-50W which is around 3-4 amp current draw at 12V. A 10Ah pack is not going to get you through a 5 hour deco on full power, but might be fine with a power controller like the LM one. I use the Golem integrated bulkhead but that's because it was the only integrated inflator/suit heater valve around when I started using active heat. I would probably get the LM one if I was starting out now. I also wouldn't worry too much about flooding - I have used several of these vests with partial floods and it doesn't seem to be a big problem.
I will also second what AJ said about making sure the passive insulation is good too. Not only will it help in the event of a failure (these seem to be fairly common for a myriad of reasons) but it will extend the burn time of the battery pack as you won't need as much heat.
I love my santi vest. the thinsulate is a nice consolation prize when the battery doesn't work for some reason.
but the crotch strap is a dumb stupid awful idea. only thing santi has ever produced that has left my scratching my head
crotch straps are nice because when you stretch forward the vest either stays in place or goes back to its place when you pull your arms back....
it works fine with the crotch strap not hooked up. once you're in the suit it squeezes and everything stays in place.Quote:
Originally Posted by tbone1004
i never connect it anymore. it makes it super difficult to gear up not to mention the p valve connection. and it's uncomfortable
It's not a crotch strap. It's a beaver tail. And I love the way it keeps the vest from riding up. It does make it a bit more difficult to connect the p-valve, but not all that bad.
ok
more power to you. try it without it and you'll see it's not doing you any good. i haven't connected it in quite a few dives
Check out page 27: http://www.nsscds.org/files/uws/v39n...llprintweb.pdf
We use this setup on 14 hr dives in 50 degree water.
All of my battery canisters are setup with the same underwater connector. I have multiple battery packs that can be used, depending on the length of deco planned. I also have small light battery cans that I can use during a dive in extremely cold water. Very flexible. This setup even works when wet (not soaked).
We've also been experimenting with a little higher voltage battery packs, which can crank up the heat a bit. Sometimes start the first couple of hours of deco with normal voltage packs, then switch to higher voltage pack for last few hours when the cold is setting in.
You ALWAYS need to be prepared that this will not work. This is a nice to have, but not something you should DEPEND on. Too many things can go wrong.
Very cost effective and can be expanded to include heat pants.
GG builds a good product. Got a couple hundred dives on mine. Like the on/off + 3 heat settings. New battery canister is now waterproof at the charger plug, in case you leave the cap off. Vest wires are coated so as not to shock if flooded. As mentioned earlier, they're on sale now. You can use any canister if you go with the EO plugs. Here's how I mount my battery:
I wear two cans with e/o cords when I'm vesting. Provides redundancy for both the light and the vest if one can craps out during the dive.
I also wear 2 cans with E/O cords. But please don't make me agree with AJ.
It's happening more and more often these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by kwinter
Soon your journey to the dir side will be complete.
I watched him testing that day. Good to see gear being tested.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PfcAJ
Over the dead body of GI3
iPhone. iTypo. iApologize.
I have to go with what CHILL says. I know many on the team and what the dives they do. I trust him. our water is colder then in FL so I ask why need a vest om FL ????????? spend your money and tey or use something that is known towork,
because of the duration of the divesQuote:
Originally Posted by SLIM
I get cold after a couple hours of deco. Shorter deco is no problem and I use passive systems like more layers and can get away with it.
It's also not just about comfort. Think of heated systems like a safety device - more efficient deco because you're warmer on that phase of the dive.
Also can save the day if your suit leaks and you get wet on the dive.
The person who develops redundancy in staying dry and increases the reliability of staying warm, will be a hero. Major suit leaks are at the top of the list for concern in planning lengthy dives, especially in colder water with significant deco obligation. Having proper undergarments is about all one can do, besides having a habitat to crawl up in toward the end of the deco.
Today was 300' deep, 6 hours in 68 degree water. That's why I need a vest.Quote:
Originally Posted by SLIM
My bad, for got what yall call cold water. Does make sence. Dove with some that had like heavy thermals on and I just a base layer for the 68* water down here and not the 48* back home/ A buddy who has moved down and is already in the heavy thermals, says it is cold and wont dive what we have back home anymore.Quote:
Originally Posted by Superlyte27
Yeah, I would get cold in 68 degrees with half that time. Plus, you're on helium, which will suck the heat out of you as well. And if you've been on scooter, then that just adds to the loss of heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Superlyte27
Bottom line, the heater vest is one more tool in the toolbox to plan an effective dive, especially if it involves significant deco. Nothing sucks worse than being cold during a long deco and everyone's individual tolerance to cold is different.
Once I get into a deco longer than 45 minutes or so in a FL cave, I start to feel the chill. Longer than that and it gets pretty cold. I envy those of you who don't need a hood, and can walk around outdoors in the dead of winter with sandals and no socks.Quote:
Originally Posted by SLIM
I've been on a number of very long decos where I'm warm with my heated vest, extra hood & gloves that I put on when starting a long deco, and watching my buddy (or buddies) shaking like leaves on a tree in on a windy day. You can't help but feel their pain. I've trimmed off deco time more than once because I just couldn't take the cold any longer, before I got my vest.
So don't laugh until you've done a 2+ hour deco in 72-degree water without one.
Oh yeah, they are great on cold ocean dives, as well.
Done a 3 hour deco in 50* water with no vest. I am gettin ready to look at a vest with what I am doing now an since th OCDA have already got it figured out I will use them for the knowledge. I forget that water temps and what I call cold and down in FL call cold are differant.
If you did that, and can still talk about it, you don't need a vest, IMO. You obviously walk naked in snow and are one of my new idols. I can only dream.Quote:
Originally Posted by SLIM
Hi folks, I am considering getting a drysuit heater vest. My only reservation is whether it will increase the likelihood of skin bends. I know some people recommend shutting off the vest during the bottom phase and turning it on only during deco. Has anybody had skin bends while using a heater vest? Thanks, Peter
really interesting podcast came out a few days ago on Pod Diver Radio that was an interview with one of the MD's at Duke Hyperbarics on thermal protection and decompression stress. I'd listen to that and make your own opinions
not meQuote:
Originally Posted by Boondock
flip it on during deco when you get cold. warm is better than cold on deco IMO
On my local dives in the great lakes, the vest is fully on for the full dive and deco and sometimes on surface.
For cave dives, can't speak much since I haven't had to use it yet...by would expect using it in dives longer than 3hours with my bare 200g undies.
I find that I never use more than the low setting so no worries about skin bends, but then again I really have to crank up the hot water at Ginnie
to get any indications of skin bends.
As far as using it in sub artic conditions--below 70F I really don't know.
The Santi gear is good. Our team has been wearing both the Santi heated vest and the full Santi heated suit at the same time for long duration cold water dives in France for the last 3 or 4 years. 8-10hours in 10degC (50F) water. Just using one system at a time, with the other for redundancy. The 3-4 hour deco location is 3000ft into the cave and heating failure is potentially dangerous for a safe exit.
Santi do a double E/O suit inflate connector so you can connect both systems redundantly to external battery packs. They also do heated dry gloves and socks too. You can Y these into either of the circuits.
For power we've been using a 70Ah 12V Lion pack mounted on the belt in an old Halcyon Pro14(?) can, with a smaller 20Ah can for lighting. Both inter-changeable with e/o's. We also have a big stage-sized neutral NiMH pack with two switches and long e/o's that we leave with the deco bottles to cover for any other problems.
Like any new product, there were some problems initially with the Santi vest. There were some failures in the cable where it bent at a tight radius. Santi are working hard on these products and there are noticeable improvements on the newer vests with improved stress relief and more robust cable.
Other good idea is to ensure you use a washable base-layer underneath the electric stuff. Avoiding sweating into the vest reduces the need to wash it. You probably can wash it, but it can't be good for it.
The cheaper option is just to buy a very good undersuit combination. I use a merino base layer, a 200g Santi non-heated vest and a BZ400 undersuit under membrane suit with dry gloves for all my dives (up to 4 hours) in 50F water.
Steve
How have the Marshall connectors been working for you? I have 6 mo. old E/O connectors that have already seen the hammer. If you have a good source at a fair price, I would love to give them a try.Quote:
Originally Posted by chilldive
To my knowledge no one on our team has ever had a problem with the Marshall connectors thru many years of serious use. We get them direct from Marshall. Btw I use them for my lightheads and heater vest.Quote:
Originally Posted by scubainchicago
For power we've been using a 70Ah 12V Lion pack mounted on the belt in an old Halcyon Pro14(?) can, with a smaller 20Ah can for lighting.
What does that 70ah 12V L Ion pack look like???? Any info would be helpful. Thanx.
Steve[/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]Quote:
Originally Posted by cavekrazi
I'm not sure I have a photo of it, but it's just a large collection of series & parallel cells welded together with small strips in a hexagonal shape. Same as traditional Nimh packs, with heat shrink around it. There is a battery management board built into it to balance the cells/strings and avoid over-discharging. It fits into the can with a little bit of free space at the top.
Someone in continental built a pair of them for us, I'll see if I can find out who.
70Ah or 70Wh??? 70Ah at 12V is 840Wh......that's the size of a very respectable scooter battery.
70Ah Li-on. Lots of cells :)Quote:
Originally Posted by victorzamora
We had an earlier nimh pack of the same physical size, that was 30Ah.