Yes, but a Gillette Fusion works better.
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If your goals are full cave dives, decompression dives, drysuit dives in hot/humid climates, or multiple shorter dives in an environment where it's inconvenient to remove suit between dives (time-constraints, rainy, cold and/or boat), then I would definitely go with She-p.
For me it is not perfect, but the amount of times I've completely urinated on myself have been very few. I use it on most of my dives longer than 60 mins.
Key things that work for me:
Urobond glue (Keep bottle cool and upright)
Poise pad backup (light to very light variety)
Site prep
Quick disconnects (using flow through female on p-valve side, and shut off valve male on she-p side)
Make sure to clean out p-valve tubing
Apply she-p at least 10 minutes BEFORE going out into a hot/sweaty environment
I also prefer the previous generation clear silicone ones that were a little less-soft than the current version.
Go forth!
As far as doing it yourself or Gamble....
My last drysuit the Aqua-Seal cost 12 bucks to do it myself OR Gamble charged $20 bucks to install the pee-valve. For $8 difference, I'll let the professional be responsible for the hole in my drysuit.
Thanks for the advice and PM's ladies. :-) I'm pretty sure I will invest in one and try to have fun with the learning curve, lol!
Yeah, that "Need Female Opinions" in the title didn't give a clue at all!
Waxing is the BEST!
Tracy...practice in the shower, be patient with yourself, and don't hesitate to ask questions! There's a great Facebook page for us, as well as an excellent thread on Scubaboard, both with excellent tips and advice.
She-P ROCKS!
Placing it toward the front of the leg is more comfortable, just be sure to keep it slightly to the inside so it is not the low spot on your thigh when swimming.
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Having had the mother of all kidney infections from a pee valve, I am now a big believer in leaving them removable so they can be boiled/disinfected more thoroughly than is the case on the suit.
On my own installations I permanently bond rubber gaskets on the inside and outside of the suit material to provide a secure seal without resorting to gluing the valve in place to provide a seal. I cut the gasket so that it extends about a 1/4" past the valve flange. It's the same principle as the seals on the inlet and exhaust valves. On customer suits, if they don't opt for the rubber gasket approach, I glue the valve in place but do it with clear silicone adhesive so that it can be peeled back off the suit. I avoid Aquaseal as it is pretty much forever.
Different valves require different sized holes so be sure to measure before you cut or punch. A punch is great (just be sure to use a backing material inside the leg so you don't end up with an extra hole in the back of the leg). However I've also used an Exacto knife with a #11 blade and cut the hole with the help of a drafting stencil. Again, use a piece of wood or similar flat hard object as a backing surface.