Tennessee Exploration Trip - Cow Crap and Guy James
April 26, 2007
Never has a clock moved so slowly, but finally, it’s quitting time! Packing the gear up the night before shaved off some time, and we’re on the road by 5pm. Tennessee, here we come. Ten hours of driving wasn’t as bad as it sounds, at least not on the way up. There sure are a lot of Shoney’s in Georgia and Tennessee!
April 27, 2007
Thanks to the time zone change, we gained an hour and hit Tennessee about 2am. TJ was kind enough to drive through the pass so that I could gawk and oooh and aaahh at the beautiful sites. Yes, I know, it was dark! The mountains were visible because of the utter blackness against the night sky. A three-quarters moon and lots of beautiful stars reflected off of the river on one side, while the mountains loomed over us on the other. I couldn’t help but wonder how many dark, unexplored underground passages were hidden on both sides of us. Like a kid at Christmas, I wanted to “open” them all! A sprinkling of lights on some of the mountains reminded me that these mountains are home to many, most probably happily snoozing away at this hour. I am so glad to finally be here.
A few hours of sleep and we’re waking Marbry up. Although he has to work today, he’s kind enough to tell us where to find important stuff we’ll need, like Smithwick’s beer and air fills. He then meets us at the HoJo to lead us to our first dive site, Cow Crap Sink.
Cow Crap Sink is located on a dairy farm, run by the Middle Tennessee State University. A professor friend of Skip’s noticed that the watering hole on the property did not freeze during the 25◦ weather. Instead, the pond had steam rising from it.
Driving through the curious milk cows and some piles of the sink’s namesake, we came upon a deep depression. Surrounded on the far side by trees and a very nice rock ledge, the near side was mud, filled with hoof impressions of the bovine inhabitants. And more piles of the site’s namesake.
As we stand at the edge of the karst window (aka a bovine hydration facility), Marbry explains that there are two openings, the upstream to our left, and downstream, which is directly in front of us on the far side. Marbry has laid approximately 1500 feet of line in the upstream, and a “little” in the downstream. While we were there, the flow was noticeable at the surface, but apparently the flow was much higher than normal due to rains earlier in the week.
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Marbry headed back to work while we began to unload gear. It was then that we realized what a deep interest cows have in dive gear and cars. Apparently, both appear as likely new food sources. The term “cow-lick” takes on a whole new meaning when you notice your car covered in muddy cow tongue impressions!
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The rock ledge along the right side of the sink made a great place to gear up. The flow was definitely noticeable from the surface. TJ submerged first to check out the entrance using the scooter. After just a few minutes, he surfaced, having had no luck entering the upstream passage. Even with the scooter, the flow was just too high without some sort of handholds to assist entry. Leaving the scooter, he and I went back to try again, hoping one of us would be able to find the sweet spot and get in. The water was cool, but my “new-to-me” drysuit did the trick just fine.
We took turns fighting the losing battle at the upstream entrance, neither making enough headway to gain access. The water temperature was 59°, and our maximum depth at the upstream entrance was 41 feet.
Giving up, for now, we did a bit of site-seeing around the entrance. Old rims from wagon wheels, and even a more modern tire and rim, are among the detritus that have found a resting place here. We rudely interrupted some crawfish passion as well, although the loving couple didn’t really seem disturbed by our presence.
From there, we headed over to the downstream entrance, being very mindful of the high flow. We certainly wouldn’t want to try to fight our way out in a flow like that we found in the upstream hole. We located the line and followed it in for about 50 feet before it ended. I tied on a spool and we continued another 50 feet. We spent about 15 minutes here, with a maximum depth of 25 feet. The rocks are dark, rusty-colored, and sharp. The visibility was about 5 feet, and the cave seemed relatively small. We were both in sidemount and had no problems floating through. The flow wasn’t a problem for the areas we were exploring, as it was amply wide to accommodate the volume. We found one small piece of pottery. It appeared to be the broken off top of a small bottle. The opening was centered with small looped handles on each side, the total width was approximately six inches. After unwinding about 100 feet of spool, we turned and headed out.
On the surface, we were both in agreement that this sink will definitely merit a return trip. Hopefully, the flow will be down. A contingency plan is also forming, involving a trip to Home Depot for rope and rebar.
Back at the car, the cows had been called away, but they left presents. That was we discovered that paper “temp tags” placed on new cars are considered particularly delectable cow treats. Thankfully, TJ is particularly skilled in the use of duct tape and the tag was salvageable. After taking care of important post-dive tasks, such as getting our tanks topped off and eating a mall pretzel, we heeded the call of the burrito.
Marbry and Mike M met us at the Mexican restaurant to hear all about how much line we had laid in Cow Crap today. Oops! Sorry guys! Marbry told us of an old story involving a farmer taking a crop of watermelons to market. His wagon ran off into Cow Crap sink, and he was able to rescue only himself. The horses, wagon, and watermelon were sacrificed to the sink. Perhaps this explains the old wagon wheel rims we found?
Over some good food, cold beer, and monster margaritas, the guys shared some great stories about the local caves. Marbry drew us a map of tomorrow’s dive site, Guy James (aka Three Sisters). Those spaces at the end of each of the known lines fascinate me. They’re just open ended, and begging to be explored. All three of the guys have been there, so I’ll be newbie. Mike really wanted to go some bike race on Saturday, but we managed to save him from himself. Hmmm, bike race vs cave dive….was there ever really a question? It’s decided we’ll meet tomorrow at Shoney’s (one on every corner, I think it must be a Georgia/Tennessee law?).
April 28, 2007
After a quick loop by Starbucks, we headed to Shoney’s. I bumped into Marbry at the buffet, and Mike M. joined us at the table minutes later. Next up was Mark W, fresh from setting up sound studios in NC. Over breakfast, Mike M shared another map of today’s dive site. A friend of Skip and Marbry’s, a professor of hydrogeology, first pointed them to this cave. Their initial forays into the cave revealed old boat rope other crude cave diving gear, leading them to believe some open water divers may have tried their luck here in the past. We discussed some of the basics of the cave and a tentative dive plan. It never ceases to amaze me how much information these folks have stored in their noggins!
Pleasantly stuffed, we headed to Mike M’s house to consolidate vehicles for the trip to Guy James. Mark W’s white fluffy Bichon Frise was welcome eye candy to Mike M’s beautiful German Shepherd. He perked right up at the sight!
A short drive and we’re turning off of the paved road into an open field. No gear-sniffing, car-licking, tag-eating cows were anywhere to be seen. Whew!
A man-made stone wall, which seems to have been around for more than a few years, is the first thing we see other than tall grass. Stepping down the rocks, another beautiful pool greets us. This one is much smaller than Cow Crap, and is the beginning of a picturesque run to a nearby creek or river. Uh oh, there they are! More cows! These are on the other side of a wire mesh fence though, so I think we’re safe.
The spring is surrounded by a wide rock shelf on two sides, as if some talented architect had designed the perfect outdoor spa, completely natural looking, but highly functional. Marbry points out that the opening is at the center of the west wall. Flow is low and steady. Mark W’s poodle is leashed beside the pool to guard from gear-nibbling cows.
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There is line, but it’s a bit difficult to locate on the first try, so Marbry and Mike M will lead in to make sure we all find it easily. The tunnel goes in a couple hundred feet before the first Tee. TJ, Mark W, and I are in sidemount, so it’s decided that we will take the sidemount tunnel, which is a left off of the Tee. Marbry and Mike M, in doubles, take the main tunnel. Based on experience levels, Mark W and I will turn our dive when things get “nasty” and leave TJ to hopefully push more line in this beautiful little sidemount passage.
Visibility in the basin is low to non-existent, which could be expected of such a small area just invaded by five divers gearing up. The water temperature is 57°. At the opening, I manage to kick off a fin (spring straps, Santa?) After what seemed like an eternity, I located the hot pink treasure and joined the group. Marbry was right…finding that line was a challenge. TJ was waiting inside prior to the Tee, and we headed in, turning left at the Tee. Mark W. was up ahead.
This cave is beautiful, from what I see in small glimpses. Great visibility is wonderful for getting a “big picture” of cave, and I love the North Florida caves that offer it. However, the very low visibility here today acted like a microscope, enabling me to zero in on individual aspects of the rock. Undisturbed beds of silt, a jagged rock jutting out, unmarred by repeated “pull-and-glide” touching, a cut away of striated cave wall…many times, with great viz, these things meld together to make a single beautiful picture. Today, the cave treats me to the details, and I am thrilled.
After about 100 ft, my buddy checks on my mental state…no more nuts than I was before we entered…and so we continue. Another 50 ft, and I catch a glimpse of Mark W’s torch. He gives me the turnaround sign, so I do, signaling TJ that Mark and I are turning as I squeeze past him on my way out.
Mark W heads out of the cave, where he meets up with Mike M, who had also turned from his trip into the main line. With plenty of gas left, I drop a clothespin on the line at the Tee and head up the main line.
In this tunnel, the visibility is greatly improved and the cave seems larger as well. Many small shelves of rock jut out. One six-inch red shelf holds a giant dark gray crawfish, who lets me know he’s got big pincers and wouldn’t mind using them. In contrast, other shelves are a shimmering black, appearing to have formed from molten metal. Marbry later tells me this is a rock called chert.
The cave takes a sharp left turn, where a delicate looking formation acts as a cross-bar to the next area of the cave. Following the line up and over this formation, I feel honored to be in this place and resolve all over again to be the best diver I can be, and to continue improving my skills, so that I leave no trace of my visit to these places. After the sharp left, the cave appears to twist and turn a bit more than the first section of the main line did. It continues to be relatively narrow and tall and I can often glimpse all four sides around me.
A cave fish and I startle each other before he decides I’m not worthy of any further reaction. It’s about then that I come upon another unique species of cave fish…this one of the Scottish Highlands rock-throwing variety, aka Marbry. We wave and I continue along behind him for a short distance before he turns the dive. Having penetrated about 1400 feet in this tunnel, I’m nearing my gas turn-point as well. I guess it’s time to end my cave mermaid fantasy and head back to the world. On the way out, I spot a tiny isopod sitting on a ledge, amazingly fragile looking. What a lucky turn of the head that was! My total dive time was 55 minutes. The maximum depth was 30 feet, but averaged 21 feet.
On the surface, we review the dive and every one agrees it is a beautiful cave that merits many more dives. Walking back up the slippery rocks with my gear on, the guys remind me of Skip’s famous doubles-sledding trick that took place here. It sounds like a pretty exciting ride, but I’m going to do my best not to create a sidemount version of the event.
We continue to debrief and review the dive as we all gear down and load up, then we’re off to grab lunch and to the dive shop for fills. If Thai food isn’t THE perfect food for after a dive, it has to be awfully close! At the dive shop, Mike M jumps right in and starts filling us up, what a pal! While we’re waiting, Mark W and TJ pick up some groovy new headlamps. Those will be fun to take for a test ride.
Mark W has a hot date with Mrs. Mark W, so once we get back to Mike M’s house, Mark W and his pretty puppy are off like shots. Marbry’s avoided his Rescue water work for as long as he can…and now Mike M and I are going to get treated to the show.
We head off west to the quarry, my first. Wow! Pictures just don’t do it justice. Mike M and his dog take up shore duty, while TJ, Marbry, and I don our wetsuits and jump in. I thought the water was a bit cool…until I dived down about thirty feet to the bus. Ok, that’s cold! Suddenly, the surface seems much warmer. After TJ and Marbry finished amusing themselves with rescue breathing, we decided that the partially sunken boat needed to be righted, filled with rocks, and sank properly.
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It seems the boat had different plans. After finally righting it, we pushed it near a rock pile, where Marbry and TJ commenced with boulder throwing practice. It takes a bit of trust and maybe a large touch of idiocy to attempt to hold a boat upright while those two hurl rocks bigger than my head. Mike M is apparently amused, judging from the howls of laughter coming from the shore. Finally, the boat has had enough of our antics and turns its back on us, dumping the rocks and taking up its former upside down position.
Ok, we can take a hint. We’re outta here. Back on shore, we stand around and visit over a few beers as the sky turns dark and the stars appear. I have to keep reminding myself to pick up my jaw from the ground, but the night sky here is simply amazing. We just don’t get night skies like this in Orlando.
Over more Mexican food and beer, we devise a plan to conquer Cow Crap. Marbry will bring the rebar and rope and we’ll show her!
April 29, 2007
We get to Starbucks early, TJ’s eyes sparkling at the thought of internet access, but alas, he would have to live without it for another day. Marbry arrives and looks like he could use a bit of caffeine, perhaps a gallon will do? Mike M is not far behind him, and once everyone had caffeine in hand, it was back to Cow Crap sink. The cows were quite comfortable lounging under the trees and didn’t give us much attention today.
TJ heads in with the rope, rebar, and scooter, while the three of us sit of the bank with our fingers crossed. It’s only minutes before he resurfaces, still in possession of the rope and rebar. Sadly, there’ll be no diving in Cow Crap sink today.
Mike M and Marbry will come back later when the flow is down and install the rope, enabling future trips to be made during high flow. I’m disappointed that I didn’t get to lay any new line or do any surveying on my first trip up here, but the experience and comradery have been unforgettable. And all those miles of line we knotted for the trip will be ready for the next opportunity!
But wait! There’s more! Lucky for me, the guys were up for a trip to Snail Shell. This is a beautiful place owned by the Southeastern Cave Conservancy (www.scci.org). Having been afraid of heights most of my life, I believed my recent skydiving adventure had cured me. Now I knew better. After a pleasant walk through beautiful Tennessee woods, we came up a huge, deep hole! Stepping near the edge caused my breath to stick in my throat. My heart didn’t know whether to race or stop altogether.
TJ, being part spider-monkey, as well as part fish, took off ahead, looking as if he were born here among the tall trees and rock ledges. Poor Mike M was stuck behind me as I made my way gingerly along the path. Didn’t they realize that was sheer rock wall right there next to the path? However, when we rounded the final corner, the view of the Snail Shell entrance opened wide before us. This made the precarious trip down well worth it. The coolness of the place surrounded us. The waterfall and the stream added the sound track. This place must be heaven. One day soon, I hope to return here with gear and back track the stream into the earth. Today, I just feel awed to know that it exists.
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After we made our way safely back to the top, there were goodbyes all around. Our hosts were incredible, and I truly appreciate them for taking the time to share this beauty with us. Now, the ten hour drive stretches out before us. Goodbye mountains, and Cow Crap, and Tennessee friends, we’ll be back.
Shirley Kasser 4/29/2007
