"Screwing off" on the way out at 2200' ...

Just had an awesome weekend of diving. Still really stoked! See If I can't get some reports and pics up later.

One thing occurred that had been practiced, but not planned on. We were having a bit of fun scootering out, and I began a rather "sharp" U-turn. Unfortunately, my trusty Gavin ate a knot on the tow cord due to some over zealous maneuvering (lesson learned on that). After the clutch clicked a few times, I reached down to pull the line out of the shroud, and surprise surprise surprise.

I was watch my prop settling down to the floor spinning with a nice steady rotation. It looked so peaceful (or is that pieceful?).

There was no indecision & no excitement. There was certainly enough gas to swim out, but that was not my preferred option.

I just had to wait for one of my team to assume the position. Now don't get me wrong, I really appreciated the tow. Afterwards, as we were chilling at the surface there were a lot laughs with remarks like:

"Man your crotch strap was tight."
"If I tickle you first, will it make it easier to slide my hand in there? (Talking about the strap)
"That's the longest I have ever had my had that close to another man's..."
"I bet that's the longest butt video you've ever had. (helmet mounted gopro :) )

Why were things so light hearted? Planning for contingencies. A broken scooter does not have to be anything more than an inconvenience.

Anyway, focusing on the scooter, I do not know much about these prop assemblies first hand, but it appears the screw may have simply backed out, and I am not certain to what extent there may or may not be damage yet.

If anyone would care to exchange a PM or two with some knowledge in this area, I would be all ears (eyes).

you need a special screw with red loctite. paypal me a couple bucks and I'll send you a few i got from george.
you also need to test your clutch to make sure it slips. if the clutch doesn't slip right it will be more apt to back the prop off even with the good screw with the special goop on it. you wont be able to test this with the crappy plastic clutch.

I think this is what you want.

http://www.dpvrepair.com/contents/me...%20%20web2.jpg

the screw you want (81 i think on john's diagram) is tapered as well. it's not just a regular screw

SEE!!!?!?!?!?

Its not broke, that's the good news. Here's how to fix it:

1. Remove the pitch adjustment knob by removing the single screw. This will expose
the outer hub and the 3 hub retaining screws.

2. Remove the 3 hub retaining screws.

3. Carefully lift off the outer hub assembly complete with the 3 propeller blades, yoke
and yoke screw. Tip – hold the assembly by the square section yoke screw and lift
the assembly upwards. This will prevent the blades from coming out of the outer
hub. Once removed, the clutch screw and clutch washers will be exposed.

4. Using the correct size flat blade screwdriver, loosen the clutch screw. This will
be VERY TIGHT and may be secured with thread locking compound. You will
need to hold the inner hub tightly to undo the screw. If you can’t hold the inner
hub tight enough when removing the screw you will need to lock the motor rotor
with a piece of wood or similar to prevent it from turning. Do this from the other
end of the motor housing.

5. Remove the clutch screw and bevelled washer, together with the clutch spring
washers. CAREFULLY note the exact sequence of washers and make sure they
are reassembled in exactly the same order. There is a small clutch support
washer which sits in the inner hub and a special bevelled washer at the top. The
exact number of spring washers in-between depends on the type of clutch fitted.

Okay that screw with the thread locking compound is the culprit. When you reinstall it, make sure everything is clean and dry and use blue loctite and on the screw and screw it in TIGHT. Then let it cure. Reassemble the blade/hub and you're good to go.

To test the clutch, I put a dowel rod in between a blade and a stanchion and hit the trigger for a second. Itll make a horrible noise but its supposed to do that. If your prop doesn't spin off you're good2go.

Outstanding! Thanks so much. Looks like my weekend project just materialized


Jeff
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The clutch disk #79 on Johns diagram is metal. The surface it mates to is plastic. That mean I have the crappy plastic one, or the good metal one?


Jeff
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There's a crappy black plastic one, a white delrin one that breaks, and a good metal one. The mating surface for all of them is plastic.

That plastic *can* wear down and your clutch will slip in the water, and there's nothing you can do to fix it except replace it. I've only seen that happen once.

i think the delrin one will break sometimes. the plastic one just gets ruined when you slip it and needs to be replaced.

you have the good wkpp clutch

Quote:

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Originally Posted by diveconjeff

...I just had to wait for one of my team to assume the position. Now don't get me wrong, I really appreciated the tow. Afterwards, as we were chilling at the surface there were a lot laughs with remarks like:

"Man your crotch strap was tight."
"If I tickle you first, will it make it easier to slide my hand in there? (Talking about the strap)
"That's the longest I have ever had my had that close to another man's..."
"I bet that's the longest butt video you've ever had. (helmet mounted gopro :) )...

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An eight inch tow line on the front of the scooter would help a lot. Then your buddy could clip it into his tow ring, and tow your scooter, and you out.