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  1. #1

    Default What tanks will trim better?

    I am currently diving double Faber LP95s and as far as the weight goes they are perfect. My DS is a whites Kodiak and I don't have to add an ounce of weight to be neutrally buoyant at 300psi. The problem is that I am top heavy with my bands all the way shoved up to the tank neck. With the bands all the way up it makes it difficult to do valve drills. What are some suggestions on tanks with similar buoyancy characteristics to the Faber LP95s. I am wanting to go with HP tanks and am leaning towards the PST HP120s but any and all suggestions are appreciated. I am looking for a longer tank, at 6' tall and a solid 225# the 95s are to short. I can add a tail weight for now but want bigger tanks anyways so i can get 2 deep dives instead of 1 out of a fill. I always end up with 1000-1200 psi when I need at least 1500psi to safely do an additional dive.


  2. #2

    Default

    You might consider Faber LP108's as they are a bit longer then the LP95's and seem (well for me anyway) to trim out a little better.


  3. #3
    Moderator CDF-STAFF Member
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    Default

    Simply moving from a Faber to a Pressed Steel of the same approximate size should give you noticeably more negative buoyancy, as they are heavier. You might want to borrow a pair and see if they work better for you.

    We aren't really seeing the HP cylinders that much any more, as they are being replaced by the E-Series. Also, I don't know anybody that ever liked double HP-120s (yes, I'm sure somebody, somewhere does) as they're VERY negative. (The replacement for HP-120 would be the E7-120.)

    Quote Originally Posted by clayhwalker View Post
    With the bands all the way up it makes it difficult to do valve drills.
    Don't worry about it; just dive the rule of thirds.

    Whoever said money can't buy love never bought a puppy.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by clayhwalker View Post
    I am currently diving double Faber LP95s and as far as the weight goes they are perfect. My DS is a whites Kodiak and I don't have to add an ounce of weight to be neutrally buoyant at 300psi. The problem is that I am top heavy with my bands all the way shoved up to the tank neck. With the bands all the way up it makes it difficult to do valve drills. What are some suggestions on tanks with similar buoyancy characteristics to the Faber LP95s. I am wanting to go with HP tanks and am leaning towards the PST HP120s but any and all suggestions are appreciated. I am looking for a longer tank, at 6' tall and a solid 225# the 95s are to short. I can add a tail weight for now but want bigger tanks anyways so i can get 2 deep dives instead of 1 out of a fill. I always end up with 1000-1200 psi when I need at least 1500psi to safely do an additional dive.
    I would stick with LP Fabers, 108s or 120s if you need the gas. Stay away from the ps95s whatever you do as they will make the problem you are having worse.


    RAL

    What me worry?

  5. #5

    Default

    If you want more tail weight, a nice long tank like an X-120 or E-120 would work well for you. They would also provide you with a bit more gas for your dives.

    Safe Diving

    Mike Edmonston
    NAUI Technical Instructor
    Oxycheq Experimental Dive Team Test Pilot
    US NAVY Submariner TM2/ss 1988 - 1996
    Currently US ARMY Military Police NTM-A TSS-COSTALL Spin Boldak Afghanistan 2010 - ??
    Instructor Trainer and NATO Advisor to Afghan National Police Force and Afghan Border Patrol

  6. #6

    Default

    Heres a handy tank chart that might help..www.techdivinglimited.com/pub/tanks.html


  7. #7

    Default

    DIR FANATICS DO NOT READ ANY FURTHER

    With my OMS wing I have the option of banding (which I currently do not), If I tie the bands tighter at the bottom and looser at the top in theory it should move more of the air to my shoulders. I need to move my bands back down my tanks a little since I can barley reach my valves as it is.


  8. #8

    Default

    I dive twin 95's and have no problems at all.Heavier jet fins may help.Did you try moving your wing up?OR maybe a tail weight on your backplate When I went to a thicker 7mm wetsuit,my legs got floaty.I raised the wing to the middle hole all was good.Remember to arch your back.I wouldnt give up on the tanks,just need some tweekin.


  9. #9

    Death of a Cave Diver Arrow

    I have the dive rite bc and putting the screw through the middle ring on the bc works out good for me. Also the 108's might help I don't like them because they are too heavy and hit the back of my legs. I have heard the larry green bc is good with the 108's, because it is longer than the dive rite one so too long for the 95's.


  10. #10

    Default

    How many dives have you done in the 95s? I'm 6' even and about 215 and had the same problem when I first started diving 95s. About 20-30 dives later things just started trimming out. It was just a matter of spending some time in the tanks. My SAC rate also improved once I stopped fighting to keep my trim.

    However, I do agree that 95s can be a little short for someone 6' or taller. I tried 108s a few times and liked them. They are a little bit heavier than 95s, though, so they may end up making you really heavy. If I remember correctly, I was neutrally buoyancy at about 1000psi in my 95s, which wasn't a problem for me since all my dives end with 1800+ psi.

    Rob Neto
    Chipola Divers, LLC
    Check out my new book - Sidemount Diving - An Almost Comprehensive Guide
    "Survival depends on being able to suppress anxiety and replace it with calm, clear, quick and correct reasoning..." -Sheck Exley


 

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