I went back and forth with the ring bungee and regular standard bungee (on my JT) and ended up going with the standard (regular) ones.We put a short piece of parachute line with a clip looped on the line on the neck around the valve to enter the water or walk with the tanks then you just loop your bungee around the valve on the knob side.
I also placed some snaps on loops for this purpose. However, If I can gear up in or near the water then I remove them. Just less clutter...
Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.
-Ferris Bueller
Yep. My loops are a little larger to facilitate removal
I also liked them when I travel and the ability to switch them from tank to tank
Jeff
Diveconjeff@yahoo.com
Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.
-Ferris Bueller
+1 For Jeff's comment.
I use a longer loop with an XL boltsnap for the same reasons as stated above on the neck of the tank. I use an Armadillo-esque bungee for my JT, it seems to keep the tanks a lot more in line with the body and moves the valves behind the armpit. My only qualm with this style is when switching between 7" and 8" diameter tanks, I have to change the length of hose by 2" on my left tank reg that runs behind my neck.
Those loops are just long eneough to remove. I clip those and my bottom clips in before entry then put bungee around the valve when in the water.
One extra addition to this thread. After getting about a dozen more dives on it, the JT works best with shorter tanks and Faber's due to their buoyancy characteristics. This is because of the length of the wing isn't as long as a Recon or SMS100.
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