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deanme
11-18-2008, 12:38 PM
Diving the Cenotes in the Yucatan peninsula of Mexico is something I had always wanted to do, but was unfamiliar with the logistics. So when my Jacksonville dive buddy Jim Holt said he was going and asked me to join him, I jumped at the opportunity. Jim had been Cenote diving twice before, knew where to stay, what guide to use, and all the other incidental things that make a trip fun. Lodging was arranged at Puerto Aventuras, and our guide was Steve Gerrard. Steve has been diving the Cenotes since 1986, and has been living in the local area since 1992 working as guide and providing cave diving instruction.

Jim and I arrived at Cancun international airport November 1st where Steve picked us up and were introduced to Steve's dog Joe T Cocker, other wise known as Spaniel. After picking up supplies at the local grocery store called Soriana at the Maya Mall located in Playa Del Carmen, we settled in to our rooms and prepared for our first dive the next morning.

Below is an itinerary and short synopses of our diving experiences:

Nov 2

CENOTE CHAC MOOL, downstream - to the Monster Room with the very long column. Lots of halocline. 70 min, 62'

CENOTE TAJ MAHAL - to the Chinese Garden with a big room; big cavern with line. all white tunnels with walls like Swiss cheese, no silt. 70 min, 51'

Nov 3

CENOTE JAILHOUSE, Tulum - low silty entrance. 3rd jump has beautiful decorations. Big animal bones in a spot on the line after the 2nd jump; 57 min, 72' feet. (my favorite Cenote dive)

CENOTE TEMPLE OF DOOM (also known as Cenote Calavera, the Skull Cenote) - Tulum - to the Coliseum Room and the Hall of Giants Room. 10-foot entry jump to the water; steel ladder exit. Beautiful decorations; 66 min, 61'

Nov 4

CENOTE VACA HA (Cow Water), Tulum - main line all the way; big rooms with huge columns were in the first 700 feet. 53 min, 72'

CENOTE TORTUGA (Turtle), Tulum - we did the circuit on the left (small tunnel) followed by a swim up the main line (wide corridor). Nice decorations in the first part of the main line. Bad visibility halfway up the main line. 58 min, 86'

Nov 5

CENOTE CALIMBA to CENOTE BOSH CHEN - long and low hanging winding path to the Paso de Lagarto line, jump left then 60 feet to the Bosh Chen line with the confusing jump left (where the accident scenario began). From the “confusing jump” to Cenote Bosh Chen and surfaced in an air dome away from the Cenote. Beautiful white decorations with a white soft and hard crystals floor. Dove with stage bottle. 37 min, 45'

CENOTE BOSH CHEN to CENOTE CALIMBA - Tons of beautiful white decorations on the Bosh Chen line too. 46 min, 45' PASO DE LAGARTOS - the beginning is low and tight with debris, then it opens up; very shallow, 14 feet average depth. We do two jumps to the right and then backtrack; 78 min, 23'

November 6th

CENOTE MINOTAURO - big circuit. Darker cave with lots of breakdown. 79 min, 50'

CENOTE CRISTALINO to THE CHAPEL ROOM - at 28 minutes we surface in an air dome, then we go to the Chapel Room - another air dome. Very pretty ceiling with hundreds of small stalagmites, and a few bats seen there. We hit thirds at the Cathedral. 40 min, 42', 79F

CHAPEL ROOM to CENOTE KANTUN CHI to CENOTE CRISTALINO - we surfaced first at an air dome, then again at Kantun Chi, a Cenote with a bunch of electric lights in the cavern, and bats. 62 min, 41'

NOVEMBER 7th

CENOTE MAYAN BLUE (Cenote Escondido) - - start at the B line; jump left to the E line, then to the F line. Wide white tunnels. Discovered in 1986 by Steve Gerrard, Hilario Hiler, Tony & Nancy DeRosa. 57 min, 78'

CENOTE CHAN HOL - tiny Cenote with restriction at the entrance. cave has mostly white walls and decorations. Swam up the mainline and took a jump to the right to the wide parallel tunnel then jump right again, back to the main tunnel. On the left before we hit thirds we see the human skeleton. At the entrance before exiting we were treated to some pottery and some animal bones. This cave was not discovered until 2004. 99 min, 40'

NOVEMBER 8th

CENOTE PET CEMETERY I (Sistema Sac Aktun) to the BLUE ABYSS ROOM - stage dive, 111 minutes. Big cavern with line. We drop the stages just beyond the King Pong restriction. Nice white decorations in the tunnels. The Blue Abyss is huge and stunning 230 feet deep and over 100 feet wide. Since we were diving 32%, we limited our descent to 130 feet. 111 min, 130'.

We had the privilege of meeting the Pet Cemetery landowner, Arturo and his beautiful wife. Arturo has done a wonderful job paving the road and path with sand and building stairs and clean bathrooms. The accommodations and path renovations have been accomplished in such a way to enhance the natural surroundings rather then detract. Without a doubt, this dive site was the most accommodating.

Though most of the Cenotes are very shallow, ranging from a mere 20 to 40 feet, we decided to dive 32% nitrox the whole week. The average depth for our dives was about 40 feet, with only a few Cenotes reaching 60 to 70 feet, and only one dive hitting the 90-foot mark. The exception was the Blue Abyss referenced above, which is a large hole that descends 232 feet. Jim and Steve dove back mount doubles and I dove side mount with a long hose.

Water temperatures were pretty consistent at 77 degrees for the fresh water and 79 for seawater. The depth of the halocline, a visible separation of fresh water and salt water, varied depending on how far inland from the ocean we were. The sea water seeps into the ground and settle below the fresh water, causing a clear delineation between the two fluids. When ascending up from the seawater into the fresh water, one ascends through this halocline, which appears as a discreet ceiling causing a sensation of breaching the surface of a still lake. I was tempted to remove my mask and second stage, thinking I was ascending into air. Swimming through the halocline leaves a blurry trail of fresh and salt-water mixture. Once disturbed, the halocline can cause blurriness, resulting in poor visibility for following divers. Unlike silt, light penetrates the halocline, but objects even a short distance away become so blurred navigation can be challenging. Descending below or above the halocline, or swimming alongside the lead diver, results in crystal clear visibility.

Exploring the Cenotes of the Riviera Maya is an incredibly rewarding experience. Similar to Florida caves, every Cenote is different, offering a variety of depth, design, lightness of the cave walls, size of the room, length of dive, and other factors that make each Cenote is unique. For the novice, navigation can be not only challenging, but stressful. Having an experienced guide, such as Steve, not only enhances the experience, but also provides a level of safety. We left cookies at each jump and T as we traversed the line, but being unfamiliar with the topography, we would have missed many of our destinations had it not been for Steve guiding us in the right direction. In Florida, line arrows are every 100 feet with distance marked to the closest exist. In Mexico, arrows are primarily located at T’s and jump only, with no distance markings.

The morning routine was to load our dive gear and tanks into Steve's pickup truck, stop by our favorite breakfast place for some tacos to-go, and head down the road to our morning dive destination. Steve took care of the logistics of gaining entrance to the Cenote, which varied from driving into a parking lot, to picking up a key in the middle of Tulum before diving to the site entrance. All Cenotes are privately owned, so no ranger station with maps and forms. After arriving at the dive site, Steve gave Jim and I a preliminary tour of the Cenote cavern, explaining the easiest way to enter the cavern and where the cave entrance is located. We were treated to a brief history of the original site explorations, who first dove the cave and when, and other interesting incidentals about the site. Steve then discussed what route options were available to us, with explanations of each alternative. When maps were not available, Steve would draw a stick map, explaining where the T's and jumps were located, and other parochial logistics such as interesting rooms and cave characteristics. We then geared up, did our bubble and long hose checks, and started the dive.

After the morning dive, we had lunch before our afternoon dive. Depending on time, we sometimes had sandwiches and sometimes went out to lunch. When diving near Tulum, we ate at Don Cafeto's Restaurant, a favorite for locals and a favorite of mine. We never dove the same Cenote twice, always traveling to a new location. After our afternoon dive Steve dropped us off at the condo, and Jim and I walked to a variety of restaurants in the Puerto Aventuras community.

I would highly recommend diving the Cenotes of the Riviera Maya. These Cenotes are world class caves with spectacular scenery, providing a rich experience of scuba diving, adventure and exploration. Jim was a wonderful dive buddy and Steve was an incredible Cenote guide. I can’t wait to return.

dean

some pictures

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30721494@N02/

Chantelle
11-18-2008, 12:44 PM
Cool beans. We were actually down there at the same time. :) We also stayed at Puerto Aventuras! :)

Sounds like you had a great trip!:arrowgreen

Finaddict
11-18-2008, 05:17 PM
Dean, you gave a terrific description of the halocline experience. I was there in August and dove some of the same systems that you were in and seeing that halocline for the first time was really bizarre! We visited the Chinese Garden and one of the greatest challenges was just seeing the line. Once you get off the yellow cavern line at Taj Maha, the other lines are white against a white cave stone. Throw in the fuzzy haze of the halocline and my sphincter got a little tight! You really appreciate the heavy gold line and regular arrows we have in systems here in the U.S. after traveling to Mexico. Glad to hear you had such a great trip. Steve is definitely one of the more knowledgeable guides down there. I'm trying to drag a dive buddy of mine back down in the spring.

Todd

sandy
11-18-2008, 06:46 PM
Great report - thank you. I would like to dive with Steve in the next couple of years (and possibly take his stage, DPV, and Survey course). A couple of questions please:

Did you use DPVs for any of the dives you mentioned?

We would probably take our wives. Would there be enough for them to do for a week? Any recommnedations on where to stay if they join us?

In advance, thanks.

FW
11-18-2008, 06:50 PM
Great report - thank you. I would like to dive with Steve in the next couple of years (and possibly take his stage, DPV, and Survey course). A couple of questions please:

Did you use DPVs for any of the dives you mentioned?

We would probably take our wives. Would there be enough for them to do for a week? Any recommnedations on where to stay if they join us?

In advance, thanks.
I took my wife, and stayed at Villas de Rosa. The rooms open right onto the beach, so the girls had plenty of things to do while we went cave diving. They have their own dive shop/fill station, so travel time is reduced. www.cenotes.com (http://www.cenotes.com)

Me
11-18-2008, 09:58 PM
Great report - thank you. I would like to dive with Steve in the next couple of years (and possibly take his stage, DPV, and Survey course). A couple of questions please:

Did you use DPVs for any of the dives you mentioned?

We would probably take our wives. Would there be enough for them to do for a week? Any recommnedations on where to stay if they join us?

In advance, thanks.

I highly recommend you take a trip with Connie LoRe. She makes the whole experience practically effortless, especially for your first few trips. She's very connected with the landowners and her base of operations while there is at Villa DeRosa. We've been diving with Connie for 8 years now.

As to your wives, they can hop on a collectivo during the day and travel up and down Hwy 307 to Playa, Tulum or Akumal, or just hang out on the beach while you dive.

Villa DeRosa is in Aventuras Akumal, which is a few miles south of Akumal proper.

www.cavedivemexico.com (http://www.cavedivemexico.com)

deanme
11-19-2008, 07:34 AM
I might bring my wife, Belinda, with me on my next trip to Mexico, but I'm not sure she would have enough to do for a week. The Villas DeRosa are definitely the place to stay, right on the beach with reasonable rates. The pictures on their WEB site are very accurate.

If your wife can cavern dive, there are lots of caverns to explore. Many of the caverns are quite large relative to Florida. And as mentioned below, lots of shopping up and down 307. But how many local shops can you shop in a week before the routine becomes mundane? I'm thinking watching me get into Chan Hol, which is 3 feet deep with zero viz, and is large enough for about 3 divers, is not how Belinda would like to spend her afternoon. The beach at Villas DeRosa is very nice, so if your wife enjoys lounging on the beach for a week, then you are set.

Best thing is to convince your wife to take up cave diving. :)

Me
11-19-2008, 09:49 AM
For the non-diver:

Tulum ruins and aerial Mayan show via Collectivo (cheap, clean, air conditioned transportation!)

Stroll/shop/lunch Tulum pueblo via Collectivo

Stroll/shop/lunch Akumal (oceanside, maybe pueblo side too)via Collectivo

Coba ruins: Collectivo to Tulum, catch bus or taxi to Coba (or taxi the whole trip)

Snorkel Gran Cenote: Collectivo to Tulum, taxi to Gran (short distance, not really walkable, but short taxi ride, catch taxi at San Francisco grocery on corner of 307/Coba Road)

Snorkel Dos Ojos/Hidden Worlds: via Collectivo

Snorkel Caracol/LabnaHa via taxi

Stroll/shop/lunch Playa Del Carmen via Collectivo

Sit/nap/read on beach at DeRosa's

Collectivo: Large 15 passenger vans that travel up and down Hwy 307. They are noted with the verbiage "Continuas Paradus" on the side. They cost only a few dollars depending on how far you travel. Tell the driver, who speaks English, where you want to go and he'll tell you how much the fare is. They only travel up/down 307, they do not take side roads, so plan to be dropped off on the hwy and walking in/out to where you are visiting. They run up/down 307, so if you want to go South, you stand on that side of the hwy and wave at the van (they usually stop anyway when they see someone standing on the roadside); if you want to go North, you stand on that side of the hwy...etc. They are very nice vans and alot of tourists use them, in addition to the resort employees. It's a neat experience...fun too!

sandy
11-19-2008, 10:44 AM
Hey FW, ME, and Deanme,

Thank you for the responses and helpful advice. My better half is a parttime/warm water diver so she may like the caverns on a day or two. With a daughter(and diver) in college next year, I do not think I can afford for my better half to start cave diving; the beach will be a nice place for her. :D

FW, I met a few north Ga divers several weeks ago while in Athens - hope I can meet you and others during a later visit to Atlanta.

FW
11-19-2008, 11:47 AM
Hey FW, ME, and Deanme,

Thank you for the responses and helpful advice. My better half is a parttime/warm water diver so she may like the caverns on a day or two. With a daughter(and diver) in college next year, I do not think I can afford for my better half to start cave diving; the beach will be a nice place for her. :D

FW, I met a few north Ga divers several weeks ago while in Athens - hope I can meet you and others during a later visit to Atlanta.
Come on down, or up as the case may be :-D

Aktun
12-23-2008, 07:42 PM
Throw in the fuzzy haze of the halocline and my sphincter got a little tight! Y

Todd
Todd, you never mention that after the dive... :D
David

LCF
12-23-2008, 09:44 PM
I've stayed in Puerto Aventuras now three times; I book through Dive Aventuras, and we have had really unbelievably beautiful accomodations at ridiculous prices (if you share). The last trip was $50 a night per person, for a gorgeous 2 bdrm condo in Chac Hal Al, right on the marina and a couple of minutes from the beach. The place has the most beautiful swimming pool I think I've ever been in (and for anybody considering Cave 1, it's almost exactly 75 feet long). My classmate and I spent a lovely, leisurely afternoon after class "snorkeling" the bay there (I put it in quotation marks because neither of us had a snorkel, so it was breath-hold swimming, really) and finding all kind of cool small critters in the coral heads.

My husband has gone out open water diving with Aquanauts and had a good time; it's not the crystal clear water of Cozumel, but there's still quite a bit of colorful life in the water, and I'm sure it would be good enough to be enjoyable for a warm water non-cave-diver.

My husband's also done the ruins in Tulum -- He recommends hiring a guide, because you get so much more out of it. There are snorkeling tours to a lot of the cenotes as well as cavern tours. Ponderosa is a beautiful place to swim and watch the fish politics and the eels.

Puerto Aventuras has the "swim with the dolphins" thing, and as touristy as it is, I have to admit that it looks like fun.

There are some theme parks like Xcaret, that have Mayan exhibitions and food and various activities for families and kids.

Tulum has some good restaurants, and there are some in PDC, too. I can't really rave about the food in PA, although the margaritas everywhere are LETHAL.

Several of the hotels have spas, for the spousal units who are so inclined.

I have also been told that, if you drive into the interior, the villages there are really "Old Mexico", with village squares and lovely churches and town markets.

As you can tell, this is all second-hand, because when I'm there, I can't pull my rear end out of a cave long enough to do ANY of these things!

Oh, and BTW, where is Pet Cemetery, and what are the logistics of access there?

Phil
12-23-2008, 10:02 PM
Oh, and BTW, where is Pet Cemetery, and what are the logistics of access there?

You should start a new thread on that... I want to know too!

Phil

deanme
12-25-2008, 08:04 AM
I’m not the best resource for logistics, so if others can provide better details, please do so.

Pet Cemetery is part of the Dos Ojos system. The Dos Ojos entrance is well marked (see picture from link below). Proceed several miles inland, passing the road to the Pit on the right hand side. The owner has put a lot of time and money into the facilities, covering the walkway with sand, providing a clean bathroom, stairs into the dive site, and other amenities that make the dive easier.

After arriving at the dive site, you can unload and set up the gear before walking the 30 yards to the cavern. I’ve included some pictures in the link below. When we were there, a group of snorkelers came through for a cavern swim. The cavern is quite large, and has a well marked line only 10 to 15 feet deep that makes a circuit.

http://picasaweb.google.com/deanme9/DosOjos#

After entering the cavern, the dive team can swim on the surface for 150 yards or so, passing underneath the cavern ceiling only a few feet above the surface. After you reach the point where you can no longer remain on the surface of the water, you can descend the cavern line and follow it for about 5 minutes where you reach a jump to the main line to the Blue Abyss. At this point my recollection becomes fuzzy so I don’t want to provide incorrect information.

I can share that the Blue Abyss is about 2500 feet from the entrance. Average depth of the cave is about 30 to 40 feet. Just before arriving at the Blue Abyess, you ascend to 15 feet. The Blue Abyss is 230 feet deep and about 80 yards in diameter. To get an appreciation of just how large the room is, your dive buddy should swim to the other side.

When we went, we chose to breath 32%, so we limited out decent into the Abyess to only 120 feet. From this depth you can easily see the bottom at 230 feet. A permenant line is in place, so it is not necessary to run a reel. Be careful to plan your gas management well, because unlike diving a deep (200 foot) wreck in the ocean, after ascending slowly from depth, you will still have 2500 feet to traverse before reaching the surface.

Phil
12-25-2008, 08:32 PM
I can’t wait to return.

dean

some pictures

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30721494@N02/

In the pictures, witch Cenote is the one where someone stands at the bottom of a lader. I never saw that Cenote entrance. Whitch one it is?

Phil

LCF
12-26-2008, 02:49 AM
Proceed several miles inland, passing the road to the Pit on the right hand side.

So, it's well PAST Dos Ojos, then? Did you pay at the gate at Dos Ojos, or once you get to Pet Cemetery?

Any restrictions in the first 1000 feet or so?

I'm itching to find some more Cave 1 cave down there . . .

deanme
12-26-2008, 06:33 AM
Yes, you pay at the Dos Ojos gate. And yes, Pet Cemetery is a long ride down a bumpy dirt road once you pass through the Dos Ojos entrance.

There is one restriction at about 2000 feet or so, don't really remember. The restriction has a name, something like Godzilla restriction (I think I'm confused with the Godzilla room at Madison Blue). We were all able to navigate through the restriction with a stage bottle. We dropped our stage bottles several hundred feet beyond the restriction.

Luxrok
12-26-2008, 09:52 AM
So, it's well PAST Dos Ojos, then? Did you pay at the gate at Dos Ojos, or once you get to Pet Cemetery?

Any restrictions in the first 1000 feet or so?

I'm itching to find some more Cave 1 cave down there . . .


There are two ways to get to Blue Abyss from Pet Cemetery. One using the Diaz line and one using the X line. The restriction on the X line is called "Tanks On Tanks Off". It is small and a nearly perfect window in a rock face. In sidemount is is not too bad, even with a stage, I supermaned the stage. It is a little bit of a complicated approach, you are acending in break down, get tot he window and then level out into a tight bedding plane on the other side. Leave some time to deal with this spot, it will definitely add some friction to your dive. Unless you are a very small person, like 115lbs girl, I don't think you can get through in doubles. Hence the name. This is the shorter of the ways to Blue Abyss by about 5-10minutes. Tanks On Tanks Off is definitely within the first 1000 feet after you jump off the cavern line.

The other way is down the Diaz line, which also has a restriction. That restriction is called "King Pong". King Pong isn't that bad even in back mount, just a little twisting and turning. King Pong is where, I believe, the explorers broken down some columns to pass to going tunnel. My dive buddies think this is an amazingly beautiful dive, I agree with them.

Both routes require 3 jumps. I think the X Line is the more beautiful dive, however it is technically a more difficult dive.

Now for paying, you do not pay the Dos Ojos people! Pet Cemetery is part of Nohoch and not part of Dos Ojos. And if I have my facts correct, the road to The Pit and Pet Cemetery actually belongs to the owner of Pet Cemetery. When you pull into the entrance at Dos Ojos, there is a dive shop on the right hand side, go in and tell them you want to go to Pet Cemetery, I believe you want to speak with Luis. Once you pay them, you can check in at the gate for Dos Ojos.

I have written a little about my experience looking for Blue Abyss here:

Cave Diving at the Blue Abyss… The Joy is in the Journey! (http://www.quietdiver.com/90/cave-diving-at-the-blue-abyss-the-joy-is-in-the-journey.html) - I finally found Blue Abyss.....

Dive the cave my young warrior. Sage advice for a dive at Pet Cemetery. Dive: 420 (http://www.quietdiver.com/67/dive-the-cave-my-young-warrior-sage-advice-for-a-dive-at-pet-cemetery-dive-420.html) - During an unannounced relining project at Pet Cemetery, 500ft of my continuous guideline to the surface was cut and removed by another team while I was on a stage dive. I wasn't very happy!

The Quest for the Blue Abyss. Part 2. (http://www.quietdiver.com/55/the-quest-for-the-blue-abyss-part-2.html) - Second dive looking for Blue Abyss. Found Tanks On Tanks Off....

The Quest for the Blue Abyss. Part 1. (http://www.quietdiver.com/51/the-quest-for-the-blue-abyss-part-1.html) - My wife and I make our first attempt to find Blue Abyss.

My deepest dive at Blue Abyss was to 181ft, we haven't had time to go back with the CCR and take a look at the bottom, though it is in the queue.

Hope this helps.
Hans

deanme
12-26-2008, 04:08 PM
yes, "King Pong". I was close with Godzilla. :) The King Pong route was the path we took. Very beautiful.

Mart
12-27-2008, 12:32 PM
yes, "King Pong". I was close with Godzilla. :) The King Pong route was the path we took. Very beautiful.

It will not stay beautiful if people keep taking stages through King Pong. You can already see the damage. There is talk now of limiting entrance because of this.

deanme
12-28-2008, 07:11 AM
Interesting. Can you explain how you can distinguish the difference between the damage done from carrying a stage and the damage done from when the original explorers broke down columns to open up the passage? Also, can you distinguish damage done from a stage bottle vs. damage done from backmount?

Phil
12-28-2008, 08:13 AM
Interesting. Can you explain how you can distinguish the difference between the damage done from carrying a stage and the damage done from when the original explorers broke down columns to open up the passage? Also, can you distinguish damage done from a stage bottle vs. damage done from backmount?

Or damages caused by sidemount divers. Verry hard to distinguish.

Mart
12-28-2008, 10:35 AM
Interesting. Can you explain how you can distinguish the difference between the damage done from carrying a stage and the damage done from when the original explorers broke down columns to open up the passage?

I saw the place before large numbers of divers went there with stages.
But you are right, damage can be done many ways. If you know the place you know it will be difficult to take stages through without damage. Combine this with the fact a decent diver does not need a stage to get to the Blue Abyss, or can at least make it without stage from the restriction.

deanme
12-28-2008, 06:37 PM
"There is talk now of limiting entrance because of this."

Can I ask, who is talking? Given that all the Cenotes are privately owned, is there a discussion with the owner?

Me
12-28-2008, 07:34 PM
"There is talk now of limiting entrance because of this."

Can I ask, who is talking? Given that all the Cenotes are privately owned, is there a discussion with the owner?

My guess would be the "self appointed" line committee........:smt079