Shoulder Dump Valve on Drysuit

[metaldector]

My shoulder dump valve always leaks some water into my drysuit. I've disassembled it and found the little rubber valve to be curled up. Ah ha, I thought this is the problem. I flattened that out and still it leaks a little on each dive. Depth doesn't seem to matter, shallow, deep my arm gets wet. The valve is a famous brand starting with the letter A and ending in X. Does anyone have a solution to this or a suggestion on a replacement dump valve? Thanks.

[Signal 20]

if the rubber gasket is curling up its probably old and worn out....see if you can just buy a new gasket. that company should sell a rebuild kit for the valve

[Kelly Jessop]

You didn't say whether this is neoprene,crushed neoprene, or trilaminate drysuit-this will make a difference. I have used RTV (GE silicone II) on the sealing surface of the valve (inside),and threads,this will keep water from leaking from around the valve. It may be time for a new valve from what you describe. I'd suggest a call to the drysuit guru-gamblescuba.com

[Me]

I've had this problem as well. I've replaced the valve twice now at no charge from the drysuit manufacturer.

[metaldector]

I'm e-mailing drysuit manufacturer to get part number for the little rubber gasket. LDS suggest replacing that prior to a total valve replacement. Seem the logical thing to dol.

[IowaCaveDiver]

I had a very similar problem when I got my new DUI suit a few years ago... I was used to diving an OS systems suit that had Sitech valves and I always dove the valve all the way open and then could just simply lift my arm to vent excess air. I tried this with the DUI and I found I had a very wet arm after my first dive. I had the valve replaced at no charge for a hi profile valve as recommended by the shop I bought it from but still had the same problem... come to find out the problem was simply fixed by keeping the valve a turn closed from the totally open position. so... my recommendation, close the valve a bit, don't leave it all the way open. Hope it works... dry suit fixes can become very expensive.

-Matt

[tanto]

I have been using a non-adjustable apeks cuff dump for years without a problem. Funny, after years of water entering the drysuit through the shoulder dump (lint in the seating surface, hoses pushing the valve... whatever) I said to myself: let's move it to the wrist (actually between the wrist and the elbow) so if it leaks I only wet my arm, rather than having water in the torso. I changed to the very small apeks, and it has been a pleasure ever since: no leaks whatsoever, just raise the arm to dump, never cleaned it, just works fine all the time. And it's 15 bucks or so.
Now, the above is applicable as long as you're not trying to conform to DIR, where I think the cuff dump is not allowed.

[metaldector]

the shoulder dump valve, patch it and add the small wrist valve? Or did you leave the should dump valve in place and just add the wrist valve?

[tanto]

On the older drysuit I eliminated the shoulder dump valve and put a wrist dump instead, and never looked back! (again, I should call it forearm dump valve).
On the newer suit I had it made with the forearm dump valve up-front.
Now, my friends in Italy say that my apeks automatic-non adjustable cuff/forearm valve is not capable of venting a suit in case of a malfunction of the inflator valve (stuck open); I say this is not true, this little dump valve can vent a lot of gas and I can stay with the inflator valve pushed for a minute and the dump will dump with no problems as long as the arm is raised.
Besides, if the inflator valve sticks open, I can just pull and disconnect the hose, so I really see no problem there.