The "perfect" sidemount 2nd stage

[Kelly Jessop]

Had an interesting discussion recently on what is the perfect sidemount 2nd stage. Not sidemount configuration diving,but sidemounting where tank removal is needed,and the second stage gets exposed to abuse,and must keep working. I have always prefered an unbalanced 2nd stage that has very few o-rings. I will alternate between 2nd stages that have purge buttons and purge face plates,but have encountered people who have had purge buttons get so choked with sand that they won't operate. What 2nd stages out there can handle being filled with mud and sand, and keep working?

[laphiloche]

Poseidon cyklon (with diverite rg3000 1° stage). I use the metal for very hard condition. Not the more confortable but for me it's not a problem. Right and left immediatly.

[FW]

I use the Cylkon 300, with the environmental cap on the first stage. FWIW, a lot of CDG members use them for the same reason. British sumps are full of grime that can foul regulators. I also stretch nylon stocking material under the mouthpiece, to keep grit out of the 2nd stage. I even remove the lock ring on the 2nd stage, so I can open it up, and clean it out, just in case something slips past the nylon.

I used those regulators when we were cleaning out big Hart springs. We were using a hydro lift, and sand and gravel got into everything, even my drysuit!

I also use Poseidon Xstremes. The purge buttons are protected, just like the Cyklon, just not qiute as robust. They however do breathe easier, and don't have the issue of not working if you use them from the left side. :-)

[Kelly Jessop]

I love the Dive Rite 1210,and all the knock offs,because the are so simple. I like the HOG 2nds,but hate the purge bottom-sounds like sand paper when I push the button.

[Tegg]

a good pair of black pantyhose from the wife's collection goes a long way to preventing the problem you speak of... (of course this would mean you have to get the pantyhose off of the wife...) ;)

[RN]

I love the Dive Rite 1210,and all the knock offs,because the are so simple. I like the HOG 2nds,but hate the purge bottom-sounds like sand paper when I push the button.

The HOG buttons can easily get stuck open causing the reg to free flow. Really poor design for sidemount diving. Easy fix though by just replacing the entire faceplate with a solid one.

[Kelly Jessop]

The HOG buttons can easily get stuck open causing the reg to free flow. Really poor design for sidemount diving. Easy fix though by just replacing the entire faceplate with a solid one.

I tried that recently,and found it works great

[Line Squirrel]

a good pair of black pantyhose from the wife's collection goes a long way to preventing the problem you speak of... (of course this would mean you have to get the pantyhose off of the wife...) ;)

Gotta love tec black pantyhose :)

[DA Aquamaster]

I prefer a fullly sealed first stage (using Mk 17's) for silty/sandy water. I had found that Mk 25's tended to take more of an internal beating when used in sandy/silty conditions and the service work I do tends to confirm that.

As for the second stage, I have not had issues with the purge button sticking on G250 and G250V second stages, but the tolerances are fairly loose. In the past I have encountered other designs where a bit of sand could be problematic.

[Kelly Jessop]

As for the second stage, I have not had issues with the purge button sticking on G250 and G250V second stages, but the tolerances are fairly loose. In the past I have encountered other designs where a bit of sand could be problematic.

I spent a summer working on a cave diving project on the Flint river,and my G250s were subjected to a lot of mud and sand because that is where we had to set up,and they failed miserably. Many people are product loyal,but there are very few 1st and 2nd stages made by the same manufacturer that stand up to some sidemounting abuse,that is why I mix and match. I agree the sealed 1st stage like the Mk17 is a good choice,that is why I am fan of the Sherwoods,but in the case of a 2nd stage I stay away from the G250.

[SuPrBuGmAn]

I've had G250s and S600s go down from grinding in the sand/debri. Love those regs, but thats not where they shine :(

[argyris]

I use the Cylkon 300, with the environmental cap on the first stage. FWIW, a lot of CDG members use them for the same reason. British sumps are full of grime that can foul regulators. I also stretch nylon stocking material under the mouthpiece, to keep grit out of the 2nd stage. I even remove the lock ring on the 2nd stage, so I can open it up, and clean it out, just in case something slips past the nylon.

I used those regulators when we were cleaning out big Hart springs. We were using a hydro lift, and sand and gravel got into everything, even my drysuit!


We did the same thing, here in Greece, those of us who dive sumps and use Poseidon regulators. In addition if you put and adhesive tape to the second stage of a Poseidon Jest stream regulator just to close the side exhaust holes you can protect very efficiently from debris.

Argyris

[laphiloche]

I had 2 times a problems with jetstream. I don't like to protect the mouth piece.
First time a litlle stone in the valve ( you have one valve in jetstream for in ale and exale ) , the regulator came very wet and i could solve the problem with my cisor
Second time i have a seaweed, a very little and sticky seawed and i couldn't solve the problem
So i go back to cyklon: bullet proof, right and left and when i use my rebreather i'am happy , it have a better wob

[FW]

I don't use Jetstream regulators, too easy to damage.

[Meister481]

What about an Oceanic Alpha 8 style reg? Very few o rings and simple to disassemble and clean. Not super robust but it does the job for very little money.

[Duncan Price]

Cyclon 300 first stages are difficult to source nowadays and the alternative is the Apeks DS4 first stage with a Cyclon second stage. The IP of the first stage has to be tweaked up a notch for the senod stage not to work like breathing through a straw. There are various modifications to the second stage that bcan be made to allow underwater dissaembly and cleaning or alternatively the stocking trick prevents detritus from getting in as the expense of a potentially wet breathe.

[rigdiver]

I have a couple old cyklon's from the 70's I'd like to use to get started in sidemount. Where/who is the best place for service on these old regs?

[FW]

I have a couple old cyklon's from the 70's I'd like to use to get started in sidemount. Where/who is the best place for service on these old regs?
The southcentral US distributor is in Texas, and there are several dealers there. Check this URL: http://www.poseidon.com/index.php/our-dealers/central-and-north-america/

[Shocky]

Oceanic Alpha's simple, can stand quite a bit of sand, and easy to clean out.

[cavedivingwoman]

I am starting to worry about my scubapro second stage 600s. Disassembling them underwater would be a nightmare---a thruster ring, a seal, a diaphragm, and a two-piece cover that needs to be lined up. (This is after I pulled the cover pins out). My Apexes are a lot easy to clean up underwater.

Does anyone else worry about this? (I'm new to sidemounting and still prefer b/m).

[CaveBuddy95]

I'd say, as long as you remove the pin (Scubapro) and can access the inner part of the 2nd stage for a good shake/clean, any 2nd that allow you is fine. The most simple mechanic with least failure points...after, if all goes bad, you should be able to remove the 2nd stage from the hose and breath straight from it. That would also mean, call the dive! :(

[cavedivingwoman]

The pin was the first thing to go. It's a fussy reg, though, even topside.

[BillGraham]

I like the jetstreams, but I'm not digging a hole in the mud either. The only thing I've ever broken is the diaphram covers.