Best steel sidemount tanks

[NEON]

Hi there! A question to the sidemount divers out there: what tanks do you like best and why?

I am planning on getting tanks for sidemount - drysuit, cold water diving. Would like to be able to weight myself neutral with no tanks on. I was thinking Faber LP 85 or 108... Any suggestions?

[Diverlee]

I use LP Faber 85's and love them.

[Brian Kakuk]

My personal preference is steel 85's while diving a 7mm semi-dry wetsuit. The weight and trim of the 85's is perfect for the type of diving I do. The trim and balance is great and they are not too heavy for removal/replacement while moving through small restrictions.

These cylinders are too light for me if I dive dry though (DUI CFX 200 singnature). I have to either add two 2 lb. weights to the shoulder harness of my rig (at the shoulder D rings) or go with heavier cylinders. I sometimes use a set of Faber 100's (3180 psi), but I much prefer the 85s of I can use them. If you are using thick undergarments for your cold water diving, you may have to get creative with the weighting.

Best of luck with your choices. Safe diving,
Brian

[chimie007]

I use LP Faber 85's and love them.

Ditto on that.

Really sweet tanks. Plus, they are close to neutral so that I can unclip both of them from the butt plate and swing them in front of me without affecting trim much. really cool. I sidemounted 104s for awhile (that's what I had) but I haven't touched them since I got the 85s.

[NorthWoodsDiver]

LP 72's work well though I pump them to 3000psi for some extra gas. That and aluminum 80's are what I have around so its what I use and both work well.

[SuPrBuGmAn]

LP95s balance on me perfectly, but they are too heavy to superman midwater if staying off the bottom is important.

LP85s are the best for size vs supermanability I think.

If you are taller, you can get away with larger tanks like HP130s/LP104/LP108s/even LP121s; it just sucks trying to push them out in front of you if the bottom isn't rock or sand.

I've used AL80s for quite awhile with good success, usually put 2#s on each to keep the tanks themselves from getting positive. They still get butt light.

I've since rigged up a couple LP72s and don't use weight with them at all, as they just get neutral, not positive. They still get butt light, but compared to AL80s, they're lighter, shorter, and narrower, so I preffer them over the ALs. I pump them up a bit as well, usually to 2700-2800psi to match the volume I get with AL80s.

Ideally, I'd probably have a set of LP95s and LP85s... I can only really afford one set of newer steels though, so I have LP95s for bigger dives in places I won't need to pull tanks off within. I've since swapped from AL80s to LP72s to use in smaller places where removing tanks is more likely, or if I just don't need as much gas, initial exploration, etc.

[FW]

I agree with Brian, LP85s are great, unless I am wearing a 400g undergarment, then I use LP104s.

[phillip1]

I use al80's with 4lb chest weights, a 7mm suit. When the tanks are half empty I clip them to my waist Dring instead of putting weights on them, they stay nice and low that way and don't rise up at all.

[Kelly Jessop]

That is a tough question because there is no set of tanks that cover all situations.

Lp 85/80s pros: nice bouyancy characterisitics
small diameter
easy to remove and manipulate

cons: not heavy enough if you are diving with a heavy
drysuit undergarments
not enough gas for a longer penetration

Lp95s pros: a little more gas
shorter tank helps with the tail down problems
Nice short length makes easy to remove in tight areas

cons: heavy for the size
8" diameter
maybe not quite enough gas for longer dives

Lp108s pros: very heavy for thick drysuit underwear
good for longer penetrations with enough gas

cons: negative tank,especially in the back making you tail heavy
8" diameter

Lp120s pros: Lots of gas (equivalent of 95s and a stage)
very heavy in the beginning for heavy drysuit underwear
Light in the bottom,so no tail heavy issues

cons: You'll get a hernia carrying them to the water
Long tank,making removal in a restricition very difficult
Very light when psi get low
8" diameter

I own all the above as sets for sidemounting,and use each for different situtations because I don't find one set that will cover all my diving needs. If I my wife made we sell all but one set of tanks,what would I keep? The 95s.

[sskasser]

I started in 95's, no complaints. I got some 85's, thinking the smaller diameter would be a huge improvement. Not bad, but not so much as I expected. Then I tried some borrowed 108's. WoW! It felt like a match made in heaven. I'm long in the torso and very bouyant in the hind-quarters (oh hush!). I wasn't even aware of how much I was "compensating" in the other tanks until I got in the water with these. Of course, for "superman" dives where I'd need to swim them in front of me...probably not so much. Right tool for the job, ya know.

[NEON]

Thanks so much for all the replies!

[Jay]

The 85's are great, also a set of HP 100's work just as well, especially if you are somewhere you can't get a plus fill. :(

[alias]

I started in 95's, no complaints. I got some 85's, thinking the smaller diameter would be a huge improvement. Not bad, but not so much as I expected. Then I tried some borrowed 108's. WoW! It felt like a match made in heaven. I'm long in the torso and very bouyant in the hind-quarters (oh hush!). I wasn't even aware of how much I was "compensating" in the other tanks until I got in the water with these. Of course, for "superman" dives where I'd need to swim them in front of me...probably not so much. Right tool for the job, ya know.

May I ask you how tall are you?

As I am getting readied for trying SM I am looking at my tank arsenal – I had planned to add one (maybe bigger) set of doubles for cave diving. Now of course I should hold my horses a bit because I have no clue what will work for SM.

I have 85s doubled, Faber 100s that awaited doubling up, HP 130s for single tank diving and a couple of Als that are rigged for stages. Those being my choices I have been reading wondering which ones would lead to least contortions when starting. (Sounds like the 85s would be great but on one hand I am keen on leaving them doubled at least till next viz – an extra set for buddy as a thanks for having to lug my tanks around).

I thought the 130s would be way too much. I know they are different than 108s but I am 5’10” and I have always had the all too familiar female problem of floaty legs too (will have more so after my injury because I lost more muscle in lower body). I have very long back too. Also for most of my diving I use a lot of undergarments (heck I use quite a lot in Fl even).

Should I consider trying the big boys when my balance history has always been more head-down?

P.S. Excuse my newbie ignorance but when you guys mark larger diameter as a con is it as simple as large=space consuming=cumbersome=bad

[chimie007]

I thought the 130s would be way too much. I know they are different than 108s but I am 5’10” and I have always had the all too familiar female problem of floaty legs too (will have more so after my injury because I lost more muscle in lower body). I have very long back too. Also for most of my diving I use a lot of undergarments (heck I use quite a lot in Fl even.

Should I consider trying the big boys when my balance history has always been more head-down?


My 2 cents. I was diving BM 104s. Always had issue with going head down. Fixed somehow overtime but always been somewhat of an issue. When I switched to SM 104s, that problem went away on SM dive #2. SM tend to put more weight at your feet compared to the same tanks on BM. That's why you read about a lot of folks adding (or recommending) adding shoulder weights on the harness. I side-mounted my 104s for 60+ cave dives and I was very happy with my trim and comfort.

Switched to SM Faber 85 about 20 dives ago. The main reason was to be able to take them on my canoe. Trim was not as great when I'm started using them but I think I'm there right now. With the 85s, I tend to go feet down a little if I'm not careful. I haven't touched my 104s since then.

Looking back, I wish I had started with 85s and not 104s... SM big tanks is okay but SM 85s is just another ball game. Much more flexibility and options about taking tanks off. A lot less drag (mainly form the wing being pretty much empty).

If I'm not mistaken some 130s are neutral when empty which makes them really more like Faber 108 than PST 104... In that case, I think your 130s would be similar to 108s... If you already have them setup as single, you could give them a try.


P.S. Excuse my newbie ignorance but when you guys mark larger diameter as a con is it as simple as large=space consuming=cumbersome=badLarger diameter tanks increase drag and overall profile. Maybe not a big difference in big tunnel but it's there.

[alias]

That's why you read about a lot of folks adding (or recommending) adding shoulder weights on the harness.

This weight thing is one mystery issue to me with SM. I don't know if it is because it is a lot of cave divers talking about SM dive in warmer climate or what but I can't wrap my mind around the reality that people do not seem to use more weight. You remove BP and few more pounds of metal in general - how come people often claim they do not need more trim weight?

For example, with 85s (Al plate) in 400gr'ish undies I need 3-4lbs lead in fresh water. Should I not need a couple of more lbs with SM rig with same tanks?




Looking back, I wish I had started with 85s and not 104s... SM big tanks is okay but SM 85s is just another ball game. Much more flexibility and options about taking tanks off. A lot less drag (mainly form the wing being pretty much empty).

If I'm not mistaken some 130s are neutral when empty which makes them really more like Faber 108 than PST 104... In that case, I think your 130s would be similar to 108s... If you already have them setup as single, you could give them a try. .

I am quite sure I will start with lighter tanks either 85/100s, just for the safety of handling them at first. My 130s are Worthingtons, so I think you might be right. I am excited of the prospect of them working for me too because it would not hurt to have some options for later cave adventures.

[sskasser]

May I ask you how tall are you?

As I am getting readied for trying SM I am looking at my tank arsenal – I had planned to add one (maybe bigger) set of doubles for cave diving. Now of course I should hold my horses a bit because I have no clue what will work for SM.

I have 85s doubled, Faber 100s that awaited doubling up, HP 130s for single tank diving and a couple of Als that are rigged for stages. Those being my choices I have been reading wondering which ones would lead to least contortions when starting. (Sounds like the 85s would be great but on one hand I am keen on leaving them doubled at least till next viz – an extra set for buddy as a thanks for having to lug my tanks around).

I thought the 130s would be way too much. I know they are different than 108s but I am 5’10” and I have always had the all too familiar female problem of floaty legs too (will have more so after my injury because I lost more muscle in lower body). I have very long back too. Also for most of my diving I use a lot of undergarments (heck I use quite a lot in Fl even).

Should I consider trying the big boys when my balance history has always been more head-down?

P.S. Excuse my newbie ignorance but when you guys mark larger diameter as a con is it as simple as large=space consuming=cumbersome=bad

I'm only 67", but my torso is VERY long (read "short fat legs"). Sitting, I am taller than most guys over 6'. I have trouble keeping my lower half/fins under water when snorkling if I don't wear a low-slung weight belt. If you have access to try out the "big boys", it certainly couldn't hurt! I was honestly shocked at how good they felt in the water.

Re P.S. The larger diameter tanks ... I thought the larger diameter would be a negative, but for my own use, they turned out to be worth it. Of course, my opinion changes every time I try something new ;) Try every option possible (as in loaner tanks, positioning, etc), as you might find that what you thought least likely is actually a winner.

[saxplayer1004]

I know it's been a year, but I have different preferences than what was mentioned.
I have a pair of the old Genesis HP120's. I'm 6'4" so the long tanks don't bother me, and I'm fairly built so the dry weight doesn't bother me. I prefer the 7 inch diameter since it allows me a bit more arm freedom. I show my tanks some serious love when I'm diving and hug them the whole time.
It also works incredibly well when I have to do the REAL long dives and end up with a set of LP125's on my back and the HP120's on the side. The 7 inch tanks just feel better for me and allows me to use the same stage rigging when I travel and rent the AL80's.
Just my 2c

[JCGoodwin]

Well Saxplayer since you reopened the thread I will throw another approval on the faber LP 85's. I have been diving LP 77's and they are not bad but nothing compared to the 85's. I an thinking that I will sell the 77's and replace them with Faber 85's. I already have bigger tanks so I am not really interested in S/M those as of yet.
Good luck and safe diving!
JCG

[RN]

I'd stay away from Faber's. They are too light and start to become positive at about 2000 psi. At 1500 psi, the bottoms are very positive. Worthington's are a better tank in the smaller sizes.

[stairman]

RN with no experience with them yet, Im looking at a comparison chart and the Worthingtons are -6 lbs full and neutral empty. The Fabers show -3.80 full and 2.32 lbs empty. Is the chart wrong or am I missing something?

[RN]

Right, so the Worthingtons are neutral empty, so they are still negative with air in them. The Fabers become positive with air in them.

[mdax]

Cora and I are not doing long swims or big dives...and we've found that a pair of Worthington LP85's and Faber LP45's are just awesome. We'll do the first dive of the day in 45's, set the reel to the main line and check out conditions, then dive with the 85's.
However today, we'll hit Peacock with the 85's and then go to Cow downstream with the 45's.

[saxplayer1004]

RN with no experience with them yet, Im looking at a comparison chart and the Worthingtons are -6 lbs full and neutral empty. The Fabers show -3.80 full and 2.32 lbs empty. Is the chart wrong or am I missing something?

+2.32 when empty on the fabers. positive.

[stairman]

I see now. The - is negative which I knew and if the chart doesnt show a + or - then its positive, meaning it will be buoyant. Good info to know. I see the OMS 85 is also neutral empty and the PST 100 hp is -1.3 empty which would also be good.

[chimie007]

When looking at tables, it worth looking if the numbers include the valves (some do some don't).

Buoyancy full is at rated pressure. An 85 with a cave fill will be about 2.5lb heavier than at rated pressure.

Regs will add some weight. Not many steel tanks will have positive buoyancy empty with valve/reg.

[Jay]

Is the chart wrong or am I missing something?


What chart are you looking at? Mine show the 85's are -6.7 full and 0 empty (with valves). That is my experience also. AL 80's are + 4 empty. An 85 does not behave anything like an AL. I cannot imagine one floating. :)